Watch Happening

SIHH 2012 - JAEGER LE COULTRE - Duometre a Spherotourbillon

2012-01-18T17:57:00.002-05:00

Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to be one of my favorite watchmakers. Form and function coalesce to produce the most striking timepieces. Take for example the gorgeous Spherotourbillon. Most tourbillons, many agree, aren't practical in a wristwatch. Its standard design coupled with the position in which a wristwatch is worn combine to produce a watch, that while technically brilliant, does little in the realm of improved accuracy.

In the past decade several watchmakers, including Greubel Forsey, Jaeger LeCoultre, and Zenith have tried to solve this issue by creating innovative multi-axis tourbillons that provide superb accuracy no matter the position in which they are worn.

Jaeger LeCoultre's Gyrotourbillon 2 is one of my favorite timepieces of all time. Not just for being drop-dead gorgeous, but for having a truly useful tourbillon.

The Spherotourbillon from the Duometre collection (which feature two separate mechanisms) is Jaeger's latest attempt at combining form and function in an elegant timepiece.

A pusher located at 2, when activated in conjunction with a pulled-out crown, provides a reset for the seconds hand with no loss of precision. This innovation produces a tourbillon like no other. The tourbillon itself is inclined at 20 degrees and spins on two axes - one rotates every 15 seconds, the other every 30 seconds.

Another masterpiece from JLC. Not as awesome as the Gyro 2, but still very special.

PRE-BASELWORLD 2012 - TAG HEUER - MICROGIRDER

2012-01-18T17:15:00.001-05:00

Not content with 1/1000th of a second timing in the Mikrotimer Flying 1000 presented last year at Baselworld 2011, TAG Heuer have upped the ante.

1/2000th of a second timing comes courtesy of the new Concept from TH to be shown at Baselworld 2012, and beating at a truly ridiculous 7.2 million beats per hour. That's 7,200,000. Per Hour. 2000 beats per second. 1,000 Hertz. Insane you say! Indeed.

Watch the video!

SIHH 2012 - PANERAI - NEW WATCHES

2012-01-17T11:54:00.001-05:00

The Panerai juggernaut continues its quest for global wristwatch domination. Well, not quite, but Panerai has probably the most interesting new collection of the 18 exhibiting brands at this year's SIHH (Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie) in Geneva.

Other blogs and media outlets will probably cover all the new pieces in excruciating detail. Me? I will talk about my two favorites.

As has been the trend in recent years, ceramic is a big part of Panerai's push in 2012. The material is terrific, and I am certain that the new timepieces will find an excited and adoring public, but for me, the winners are two old-school Radiomir California 3-days (PAM00448 and PAM00424)

PANERAI RADIOMIR CALIFORNIA 3 DAYS (PAM00448) - SPECIAL EDITION

MOVEMENT
Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.3000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 16½ lignes, 5.3 mm thick, 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 160 components.

FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes.

CASE
Diameter 47 mm, AISI 316L polished steel with removable wire loop strap attachments (patented). Screw-down winding crown personalised OP.

BEZEL
Polished steel.

BACK
See-through sapphire crystal

DIAL
Black with luminous Arabic and Roman numerals and hour markers.

CRYSTAL
Plexiglas®, 2.8 mm thick.

WATER-RESISTANCE
10 bar (~100 metres).

STRAP
PANERAI personalised leather strap and large-size polished steel buckle.

Limited to 500 pieces

PANERAI RADIOMIR CALIFORNIA 3 DAYS (PAM00424)

MOVEMENT
Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.3000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 16½ lignes, 5.3 mm thick, 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 162 components.

FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, date.

CASE
Diameter 47 mm, polished steel with removable wire loop strap attachments (patented). Screw-down winding crown personalised OP.

BEZEL
Polished steel.

BACK
See-through sapphire crystal

DIAL
Black with luminous Arabic and Roman numerals and hour markers.

CRYSTAL
Sapphire, formed of corundum, 2,8 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.

WATER-RESISTANCE
10 bar (~100 metres).

STRAP
PANERAI personalised leather strap and large-size polished steel buckle.

SIHH 2012 - RICHARD MILLE - RM056 SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL MASTERPIECE

2012-01-17T11:34:00.000-05:00

Can you spare $1.6 million? Well then, have I found the watch for you. I have always wondered why cases aren't made entirely of Sapphire Crystal. It is a gorgeous material, tough (yes, but brittle), and allows for an uninterrupted view of all facets of a wristwatch. The answer to my question, of course, is that it is ridiculously expensive to machine.

Many of you will probably gasp at the price. True, it is an insane amount of money to pay for a watch with such humble complications. But I salute Richard Mille for having the fortitude to manufacture such a timepiece. I shall be adding this beautiful timepiece to my wish list.

I am told that only 5 will be manufactured. For exclusivity and audacity, this timepiece is hard to beat!

NEW TECHNOLOGY - DE BETHUNE

2012-01-06T14:52:00.000-05:00

I have been an admirer of De Bethune for some time now.

Their timepiece designs are fresh and innovative, and superbly crafted.

It was thus with significant interest, that I read their newest press release, which I have included in full here.
Welcome to true 21st century watchmaking!

De Bethune's Résonique
Part I : 926 Hz

Unhindered high frequency has become a physical reality within De Bethune R&D’s labs, where
fundamental research in the field of mechanical horology is reaching unprecedented new peaks of
precision and frequency.

In a field mainly composed of mechanical watches oscillating between 2.5 and 5 Hz, the De Bethune experimental 72 000 vph silicon escapement presented in 2006, with self‐compensating balance wheel and balance‐spring, highlighted the fact that the balance‐and‐spring frequency maintained by a lever could barely hope to exceed 10 Hz due to reliability issues and mostly because of the inevitable mechanical resistance to natural wear over time.

Based on the physical laws of mechanical resonance, De Bethune is paving the way for a new
horological field and is making its research and knowledge freely available to the watchmaking
community in order to rethink about mechanical harmony.

After two years of studies conducted by engineers and the physicist Siddharta Berns from the De
Bethune laboratory, working under the guidance of Denis Flageollet, a new principle of mechanical horology has been developed. This discovery, named “Horological Résonique”, is based on the successful synchronisation between an acoustic resonator and a magnetic‐escapement rotor within a mechanical watch.

This high‐frequency resonance system serves to store up the energy in order to maintain a highpowered time‐measurement mechanism. Multiple simulations have led to the development of several prototypes with oscillating frequencies ranging between 200 Hz and 1000 Hz.

On December 8th 2011, during the first public presentation, De Bethune demonstrated a 926Hz
oscillator with an escapement turning at a rate of 2525.5 RPM. Free of any balance‐wheel, balance‐spring or traditional escapement, and composed of a limited number of parts in motion, the silent mechanism invented by De Bethune promises in due course to achieve the highest accuracy while eliminating the usual constraints such as lubrication, wear and resistance.

More information about De Bethune's résonique available in January 15, 2012 on www.debethune‐resonique.com

Happy New Year 2012

2012-01-04T17:19:00.000-05:00

Happy New Year Watch-happeningers! Let's hope 2012 brings everyone great success and health in all their endeavors.

I didn't blog that much in 2011. Truth be told, I felt that other blogs and websites did a terrific job of introducing new watches to the watch reading world. Moreover, I just didn't think there was that much to write about.

PROGNOSIS FOR 2012

Watch sales for Swiss manufacturers showed a new monthly record (for November 2011) of just over 2 billion Swiss Francs. Almost 60% of those sales went to just 6 countries! Hong Kong (1st by a huge margin - 485 million Swiss Francs worth - that's 24% of all Swiss watches), USA, China, France, Germany and Singapore (6th).

As I previously wrote, the Chinese juggernaut is consuming a large portion of Swiss horological production. Hong Kong and Singapore are really proxies for China. The three nations together constituted 37% of worldwide Swiss watch exports in November 2011. Want to know why you can't find that Rolex, Vacheron Constantin or Patek at your local dealer? Most likely, it was shipped off to Asia to satisfy the demand of the one million strong nouveau-riche Chinese with $1 million or more in assets.

It's likely to get worse. Because of the recent Swiss Federal Administrative Court ruling regarding the Swatch group's sales of components to companies outside the Swatch group of companies, Swatch can reduce its supplies in 2012 to 85-95% of 2010 levels. That's bad news for most of the industry that relies on ETA movements for their products. The biggest issue is with the hairsprings, produced almost exclusively by Nivarox (a Swatch company) for the entire industry.

What does this mean? Sellita and Soprod, and to a lesser extent Dubois Depraz and others will not be able to pick up the slack. Between all the minor players, they manufacture less than 1 million mechanical movements a year. And they rely on the Swatch Group for many components. That means movements are going to be scarce, especially workhorse movements like the ETA 2824-2. They are already scarce and it will only get worse, especially for niche players. Scarcity in a market driven worldwide economy means only one thing. Prices will rise. Competition rules in Switzerland require monitored pricing for watch movements, and that's probably why there has been so little innovation in watch movements in the last 20 years. Why should Swatch continue to make movements for the whole industry if they can't charge market prices? In one respect, the shortage of movements will spur innovation. But that will take time. In the meantime, I wouldn't wait to make that watch purchase you've been delaying. It is my guess that 2012 will probably see some significant price increases, lack of inventory, and major shipping delays on new models.

If Iran doesn't embroil the world in a middle-eastern war, we should see a healthy economic upturn as the US and non-European countries recover from 4 years of depressed economic activity. Here's to a healthy, happy 2012!

I'M BORED

2011-12-08T18:02:00.000-05:00

That's right. I'm bored. You haven't seen much from Watch Happening in the past two months, mostly because I haven't been inspired to talk about anything, and also because I've been hiking the Huashan Trail in China, followed by Spain's El Caminito del Ray.

But the watch world leaves me largely uninspired right now. It seems like it is same old, same old. The return to classicism is in full swing. Already case sizes are trending downwards. Those brands that are still planning production of monster-size watches should be careful. The intelligent brands realized that the trend was just a fad, and although they added a few millimeters to their cases, only the crazies went to the extremes. They may even be caught with their pants down in the next year or two as more consumers tire of overt consumerism in favor of modesty.

What I would like to see is a brand take up the position that Swatch occupied in the 80s. Something fresh, inexpensive, and fashionable. Come on watch world!

NEW MODEL - ULYSSE NARDIN - Alexander The Great

2011-12-08T17:49:00.000-05:00

Ulysse Nardin Conquers the World of Watchmaking with Alexander the Great Minute Repeater Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts.

Alexander the Great. World Conqueror. Ambitious Leader. Mighty King.

The unconquerable hero of Greek history and symbol of strength inspires Ulysse Nardin's Alexander the Great Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts Minute Repeater, an exceptional timepiece that showcases the mastery of Ulysse Nardin watchmakers.

Technically advanced, while keeping the storied tradition of mechanical watchmaking intact, the Alexander the Great Minute Repeater is as mighty as the warrior for whom it is named.

Just as there will never be another Alexander the Great, there will never be a timepiece quite like the Alexander the Great Minute Repeater. Intriguing as its inspiration, the timepiece evokes awe and admiration. Inventive and complex, its aesthetic and function are incomparable.

The Movement.

Its mechanics are housed in a 44 mm case of 18-karat white gold or rose gold 4N, and are water-resistant to 30 meters. The visible one-minute tourbillon is integrated into the dial, its bridge created in the same shape as those used on the tourbillons James Pellaton produced for Ulysse Nardin at the beginning of the 20th century. The superbly finished basic movement features 36 jewels with a diameter of 27.60 and a height of 8.50 mm. Each part of the movement is decorated, angled and hand-finished.

Fighting Jaquemarts.

Jaquemarts on the dial depict Alexander the Great clad in armor and engaged in battle. For instance, in one movement he is on horseback armed with a spear, and in another, the combatant stands defiant with a bow and arrow. There are five hand-crafted figures in all, prominent in appearance against the deep, charcoal-colored background of the man made diamond dial.

The movements of the Jaquemarts are synchronized with the sound of gongs, moving to the minutes, quarters and hours, or to a combination of these units of time. On the far left, the warrior stands static, armed and ready for an attack. In another instance, the saber-wielding combatant makes a strike when the gongs sound on the quarters and hours; this is the only Jaquemart that moves on the hour. As a fierce, spear-thrusting horse rider and as a skilled archer, he makes his fighting move when the quarters are indicated. While shielded in red armor, he attacks on both the quarter and minute indicators. This is the only Jaquemart that moves on the minutes.

Ulysse Nardin remains among the rare manufacturers in the world to use Jaquemarts on the dial of its wristwatch repeaters.

The Minute Repeater.

Beautiful minute repeaters are a connoisseur's treasure, with the watches' ability to have time not only seen, but heard. The minute-repeating mechanism was patented by English clockmaker Daniel Quare in the late 17th century before the invention of electricity. With his minute repeater, Quare discovered a way that his clock could tell the time even after sunset. The first minute-repeating wristwatch was produced in the late 19th century.

Ulysse Nardin was one of the earliest manufacturers to fuel the rebirth of the minute repeater, making its creations finite and superb, its sound quality sublime. The formation of the perfect sound is an arduous process, with each minute repeater having to be individually tuned by a master watchmaker.

Tone is often adjusted by removing a small amount of metal from the gongs, but each time this is done the movement must be re-cased since the sound can only be properly tested when the watch is complete.

There simply is no way around this. Each completed and flawlessly tuned minute repeater that leaves Ulysse Nardin is reflective of a truly massive investment in human endeavor – and one that is assumed with vigor.

The Westminster has four gongs, each with a different tone (Mi-Do-Re-Sol). When the repeater is activated, the hour sound is Sol and the minute sound is Mi.

All four gongs sound in three different sequences for the quarters:

1st quarter: Mi-Do-Re-Sol
2nd quarter: Mi-Do-Re-Sol/Sol-Re-Mi-Do
3rd quarter: Mi-Do-Re-Sol/Sol-Re-Mi-Do/Mi-Do-Re-Sol

All movement parts are decorated, angled and finished by hand.

Polycrystalline Diamond Dial.

Diamond. Its name is derived from the Greek adamas, meaning unconquerable – quite fitting for a timepiece such as Alexander the Great, which features a dial exquisitely crafted with diamond.

The development and use of man made diamond signifies years of research, investments and revolutions in watchmaking by Ulysse Nardin. This decorative diamond is the culmination of millions of small, faceted diamond crystals engineered to grow together to form a continuous diamond layer. The result: an authentic, highly resilient, two-dimensional diamond surface that sparkles with intensity, exhibiting various colors depending on its purity.

Alexander the Great Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts Minute Repeater by Ulysse Nardin is a timepiece that tells many stories; one about a historical legend and an explorer whose bravery was fearless, and another about an uncompromising watch brand whose constant quest for inventiveness and beauty continually leads to revolutionary innovations.

As Alexander the Great made history, Ulysse Nardin’s Alexander the Great Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts Minute Repeater is history in the making.
One hundred of these very special, limited-edition timepieces are available worldwide.

Technical Data.

Reference 780-90
18 ct white gold

Reference 786-90
18 ct rose gold

Movement
Caliber UN-78
36 jewels

Power-Reserve
Approx. 70 h

Winding
Manual winding

Functions
Westminster Carillon Tourbillon
Jaquemarts Minute Repeater
Striking of hours, quarters and minutes
Four different chimes (Mi-Do-Re-Sol)

Case
18 ct rose gold or 18 ct white gold

Diameter
44 mm

Water-resistance
30 m

Dial
Man made diamond dial

Crystal
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal

Case-back
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal

Crown
Water-resistant

Band Alligator leather strap, with folding buckle

Limited Edition
50 pieces in white gold and 50 pieces in rose gold

NEW MODEL - HUBLOT - OSCAR NIEMEYER

2011-12-08T17:37:00.000-05:00

Hublot, Official Timekeeper of the forthcoming 2014 FIFA World Cup Brazil™, is starting its countdown to the event by celebrating the country's capital, Brasilia, and paying tribute to its creator, Oscar Niemeyer. Architect of the futuristic city, symbol of modern Brazil, one of his country's most celebrated figures and recognised as one of the most well-known architects of the 20th century, Oscar Niemeyer has agreed, quite exceptionally, to work with Hublot. In his honour, and to celebrate his 104th birthday at the end of 2011, a special series named "Aero Bang Niemeyer" will be created, limited to just 104 pieces.

NEW MODEL - GRIEB & BENZINGER - The BLUE OCEAN

2011-12-08T17:31:00.000-05:00

The BLUE OCEAN is a skeletonized monopusher chronograph based on a column wheel chronograph movement from 1926 housed in solid platinum with a guilloché platinum crown button. At 47 mm in diameter, this watch is a design statement on the wrist and, as usual, an absolutely unique piece in which countless hours have been invested in restoration, hand-skeletonization, hand-engraving, and guilloché in order to create this masterpiece of time. In typical GRIEB & BENZINGER manner, the historical movement within this oeuvre has been awakened to enjoy a new life.

The company’s typical blue platinum coating of the base plate has also found its way into this new unique piece. The base plate was first hand-skeletonized to its barest minimum and the case back hand-guilloché before being coated with the blue platinum developed by GRIEB & BENZINGER. Every single bridge and cock was hand guilloché, hand-engraved and rhodium or rose gold-plated. Even the wheels were guilloché, and the heads of all 34 steel screws were polished by hand and classically tempered a cornflower blue over an open flame.

The 26-jewel movement is outfitted with a Breguet compensation screw balance with blued hairspring.

A skeletonized dial with a rare Breguet frosted finish and overlapping displays in the characteristic GRIEB & BENZINGER style unequivocally shows the skeletonized movement and the blue platinum-coated base plate, another signature element of GRIEB & BENZINGER. Rings that seem to flow into one another, yet simultaneously display their functions in clearly defined zones, dominate the dial – which additionally shows the hours and minutes on an inner dial ring in addition to the separate displays for seconds and 30-minute totalizer at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively and the stop-seconds of the chronograph on a scale just inside the bezel.

I adore this brand's creations. Classical, timeless and elegant!

NEW MODEL - ORIS - Kittiwake Limited Edition

2011-10-26T13:33:00.000-04:00

To commemorate the deliberate sinking of the USS Kittiwake in Grand Cayman, Oris proudly presents the Kittiwake Limited Edition.

Built in 1944, USS Kittiwake served for 54 years in many important missions around the world. This included the recovery of the black box recorder from the doomed Challenger spaceship in 1986.

On January 5th, 2011, the Cayman Government oversaw the deliberate sinking of the Kittiwake to form a new artificial reef.

Limited to only 500 pieces, for every Oris watch manufactured there will be a donation given to the Kittiwake artificial reef project. The mechanical room of the sunken ship is dedicated to this partnership with the Oris plaque installed there.

Available in a ProDiver titanium case with “Rotation Safety System”, the back of this unique watch features the Kittiwake logo, together with the “diver down” warning flag on the dial, marking the association with the historic ship and its new role as
a Mecca for diving enthusiasts. The black dial displays wave printing, and the indexes of the timepiece are filled with Superluminova.

The set includes a rubber strap, with an easy adjustable titanium buckle, perfect for wearing over a wetsuit. Water resistant to 100bar (1000m).

Product Features
Oris Kittiwake Limited Edition
Ref. No. 733 7646 7184 Set, Ø 49.00 mm
• Automatic mechanical movement SW 220, with hour, minute and second hand from the center, as well as date on 6 o’clock.
• Titanium case with patented “Rotation Safety System” for additional security to measure dive time, with rubber coating on the outside and Tungsten inlay with engraved 60 minutes scale.
• Automatic Helium valve located at 9 o’clock.
• Water resistant to 100 bar/1000 meters.
• Backside printed mineral crystal with “Kittiwake” logo and limited number engraved on the case back.
• Black dial with wave printing and “diver down” warning flag, as well as applied indexes filled with Superluminova. Polished Nickel hands with Superluminova inlays.
• Multi-piece Titanium metal bracelet with double pushers and extension.
SET:
• Set includes a rubber strap with easy adjustable Titanium buckle and tooling to exchange the bracelets, as well as spare part pins and screws in a water resistant divers-box.
• Swiss Retail Price CHF 2950

NEW MODEL - ORIS - TT1 DAY DATE

2011-10-26T13:21:00.000-04:00

Featuring a three piece stainless steel case, white polished Ceramic top ring, stainless steel crown and a screw down case back with mineral crystal.

Flexible white rubber strap with an easily adjustable length system.

Apparently for both women AND men

Product Features
Oris TT1 Day Date
Ref. No. 735 7651 4166 RS, Ø 43.00 mm
• Automatic mechanical movement SW 220, with red Oris rotor with hour,
minute and second hand from the center, as well as day and date.
• Stainless steel case with white ceramic top ring and hour indications.
• Water resistant to 10 bar/100 meters
• White hands filled with Superluminova
• White rubber strap with easy adjustable length system or multipiece metal
bracelet; both with double pusher folding buckle.
• Packed in a Formula 1 tire box
• Swiss Retail Price CHF 1400 (Rubber) / CHF 1600 (Steel)

NEW MODEL - BLANCPAIN - X FATHOMS

2011-10-26T13:06:00.000-04:00

Huge. That's the first thought that crossed my mind upon seeing the behemoth called the X Fathoms. How big is it exactly? 55.65mm. That's almost 2 1/4 inches. And it's about an inch thick (24mm). It's light though, being constructed of a satin-finished titanium. And it has not one, but two mechanical depth gauges (offering different degrees of precision - 0-90 meters and 0-15 meters) accurate to 300mm (about 12 inches). According to Blancpain, it also features the most complex rubber strap ever conceived.

Technical Details
Ref. 5018-1230-64
X-Fathoms

Specialized Functions: mechanical depth gauge, retrograde 5-minute counter, one-way rotating bezel, self-winding
CALIBRE: 9918B
Thickness: 13 mm
Diameter: 36 mm
Power-reserve: 5 days
Jewels: 44
Components: 385

CASE: SATIN-BRUSHED TITANIUM
Thickness: 24 mm
Diameter: 55.65 mm
Water-resistance: 30 bar
Interhorn space: 22.60 mm

NEW MODEL - JAEGER LE COULTRE - REVERSO 80TH ANNIVERSARY

2011-10-10T14:26:00.000-04:00

2011 marks the 80th anniversary of Reverso, one of the most iconic products of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the reference of Swiss fine watchmaking. In celebration, a series of Reverso antique watches, classic and new collections will be demonstrated through an exhibition tour in six cities around China including Shenyang, Dalian, Shenzhen, Hangzhou, Ningbo and Shanghai. The Reverso exhibition tour has made its debut at the end of August and will last till December.

As a tribute to Chinese long traditional culture, Jaeger-LeCoultre has specially launched a personalized watch for Reverso 80th anniversary exhibition tour in China: the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin with a dragon pattern engraved on the back. The dragon, as a mascot in Chinese traditional culture, represents the aura of the heaven and earth and the essence of all things. This is bearing a good wish to people who wear the watch that the dragon will bring them good luck.

NEW MODEL - SWISS ARMY - ALPNACH MECHANICAL CHRONOGRAPH

2011-10-06T13:58:00.000-04:00

Named after the alpine helicopter base of the Swiss Air Force and directly inspired by the famous twin-rotor Cougar AS 532 helicopter, the Alpnach Mechanical Chronograph is Victorinox Swiss Army’s boldest chronograph to date. The sharply engineered design is extremely graphic and angular, with key elements borrowed from the helicopter’s rotary blades, cockpit, cyclic stick and turbines. Tough and exceptionally reliable, the Alpnach, like its inspiration, is a versatile utility machine operational in even the most extreme conditions.

DISPLAY
The open dial design is calm and uncluttered, despite all the information it provides, focusing attention on what matters most. Sub-counters are highlighted with a fine line in green, red or orange, like the instrument dials in the Cougar cockpit, where similar lines highlight the most important indicators. Additionally, hour and minute indicators have been pushed to the flange, clearing space on the dial face. All these details offer a better readability and enhance the functionality of this timepiece.

FEATURES
The handsome strap, which is made of the same ballistic nylon used for Victorinox Swiss Army’s exclusive line of travel gear, provides the ultimate level of reliability and durability. The small second counter at 9 o’clock is the exact shape of the Cougar’s unique rotary blades — four blades instead of the conventional two, making it more precise and reliable whatever the weather conditions. Combined, these subtle references add distinction and character for a masculine and technical context.

FUNCTIONALITY
The grips on the crown and rotating countdown bezel, treated with black PVD coating, are modeled on the helicopter’s turbines for better handling. The anatomic reset pusher at 4 o’clock subtly echoes the Cougar’s cyclic stick grip, which the pilot uses to control the helicopter.

ENGINE
The oscillating mass of the Valjoux 7750 mechanical movement, also treated with a PVD coating, is visible through a unique half-moon caseback aperture while the back of this 44mm case is emblazoned with the Swiss Air Force crest.

SPECIAL EDITION
Victorinox Swiss Army was a pioneer watchmaking brand to use “Black Ice” PVD treatment in its watch designs. The Alpnach Special Edition showcases this signature element to advantage — the deep, warm shimmer of the “Black Ice” case contrasts beautifully with the orange details on the dial. The edition’s unique packaging adds extra allure to this special timepiece.

ALPNACH MECHANICAL CHRONOGRAPH

Features:
• Swiss Made
• Mechanical self-winding Valjoux 7750 movement with Day & Date
• 44 mm case diameter
• Stainless steel case (316L) with rotating bezel, countdown and tachymeter scales
• Exhibition caseback with screws
• Water resistant to 100 m (10 ATM / 330 feet)
• PVD coating on case, crown, pushers, and oscillating mass
• Scratch-resistant, triple-coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal
• Luminescent hands and hour markers
• Ballistic nylon strap with deployant clasp
• Chronograph functions: 60-second, 30-minute and 12-hour counters
• Availability: Winter 2011
• Suggested retail price (without VAT):
o 2,125.-- Swiss francs
o Special Edition: 2,361.-- Swiss francs

NEW VERSION - HUBLOT - F1 KING POWER SUZUKA

2011-10-06T13:52:00.000-04:00

Are you Formula 1 fans looking forward to the 2011 Japanese Grand Prix? It could be the championship clincher. Hublot meanwhile, has decided to launch a new F1 King Power.

Combined with stately F1™ logo and impactful colours, the F1™ King Power Suzuka features several unique aspects made from an array of high-tech materials directly inspired by Formula 1™ such as a ceramic bezel with a circular-grained satin finish adorned with multiple holes to represent a high performance brake disk, a strap made from rubber and Nomex™, a synthetic fiber developed by Dupont De Nemours and used to make the suits worn by F1™ drivers. This model is offered as limited edition up to 250 pieces.

NEW VERSION - TAG HEUER - Monaco V4 Titanium

2011-10-06T13:44:00.001-04:00

As of October 2011 (that's now, for all you people who still think it's September), you will be able to purchase the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 in Titanium, Ruthenium and Ceramic. Much has been written about this watch in the past, so I will provide only the highlights of the new model.

The Monaco V4 Next Generation Titanium Ruthenium and Ceramic is available in an exclusive edition of 200 pieces. The case is more imposing (41mm instead of 39mm) and made of Titanium-Grade 5, with fine-brushed silicon nitride “ceramic” inserts. Other titanium components are the hand-applied faceted indexes on the dial, the minute and hour hands, the small second hand at 4 o’clock, the thermo-lacquered crown at 3 o’clock, and the strap’s folding buckle. The strap itself is in ultra-soft, large-scale alligator, with anthracite hand stitching and a rubberized leather lining.

The V4 movement’s avant-garde architecture, visible through the timepiece’s anti-reflective sapphire crystal front and back, remains unchanged (tungsten ingot linear mass, two pairs of barrels in series, set in parallel and linked by belts), but the finishes have been completely revisited, with a high-resistance black ruthenium coating on the back plate and the Côtes de Genève decorated bridges. The beautiful black juxtaposes superbly with the white “V4” and “TAG Heuer” engravings on the dial, and with the patented transmission and rewind white belts, now in high-contrast, high-tech white polymers exclusively developed for the new timepiece.

Reference: WAW2080.FC6288
Movement
• Automatic Belt-driven transmission watch
• Tungstene ingot linear mass engraved “xxx/200”
• 2 pairs of barrels in series, set in parallel and linked by belts

Dial
• 7 fine-brushed bridges coated with black ruthenium with Côtes de Genève and “haute horlogerie” hand-finishings
• Escapement and belt-driven transmission visible from the front
• Faceted rhodium-plated minute and hour hands with white luminescent markers
• Faceted rhodium-plated small second hand at 4 o’clock
• White “V4” engraving
• White TAG Heuer logo engraved at 10 o’clock

Case
• Bi-material case : polished titanium and fine-brushed silicon nitride case
• Case diameter : 41 mm
• Beveled sapphire crystal glass with double-sided antireflective treatment to ensure the best readability
• Titanium crown
• Sapphire case back in 3 sections
• Water resistance: 50 meters

Strap
• Hand-sewn anthracite alligator strap with soft-touch effect
• Titanium folding buckle engraved with V4 and with safety pushbuttons

Availability from Oct 2011
MSRP: If you have to ask... (Actually it's 65,000 CHF - Swiss Franc)

NEW MODEL - MB&F - LEGACY MACHINE NUMBER 1

2011-10-04T15:14:00.000-04:00

Pertinent extracts from the press release below...

Legacy Machine No.1 was conceived when Maximilian Büsser started fantasising: "What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s the first wristwatches appear and I would want to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but there are no Grendizers, Star Wars or fighter jets for my inspiration. But I do have pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower and Jules Verne, so what might my 1911 machine look like? It has to be round and it has to be three-dimensional: Legacy Machine No.1 was my answer."

In fidelity to high-quality 19th century pocket watches, LM1 features a sedately oscillating (2.5 Hz), large diameter balance with traditional Breguet overcoil suspended from majestic twin arches; its enigmatic regulating mechanism in full view, but without apparent connection to the movement. Both the hours AND the minutes on each of the two sub dials can be set completely independently of each other – dual time zone complications usually do not allow independent adjustment of the minutes – their domed dials further reinforcing visual references to the golden age of watchmaking (1780-1850). Looking like a miniature sextant, a world-first vertical power reserve indicator keeps track of available power while providing a visual three-dimensional counterpoint to the graceful arches supporting the balance.

Legacy Machine No.1's transcendental in-house movement bears testimony to the enormous talent of its creators. Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode (Best Watchmaker Prize at the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) met the considerable challenge of developing the calibre for LM1 from a blank sheet, while acclaimed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen took responsibility for the aesthetic design and for strictly ensuring the utmost respect for tradition and finish. Immaculate Geneva waves, highly-polished gold chatons and bridges with impeccably executed bevels following deliberate internal angles (which cannot be finished by machine) showcase the movement's absolutely peerless fine-finishing. The movement of Legacy Machine No.1 proudly bears the names of both its creators, and is the first calibre other than Voutilainen's own to bear his name.

Legacy Machine No 1 – Technical Specifications

Engine:
Three-dimensional horological movement developed 100% for MB&F by Chronode and created by Jean-François Mojon and Kari Voutilainen
Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 45 hours
Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement and dials
Balance spring: traditional Breguet curve terminating in mobile stud holder
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
Number of components: 279
Number of jewels: 23
Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings

Functions:
Hours and minutes; completely independent dual time zones displayed on two dials; unique vertical power reserve
Left crown at 8 o'clock for setting time of left dial; right crown at 4 o'clock for setting time of right dial and winding

Case:
Available in 18k red gold or 18k white gold
Dimensions: 44mm wide x 16mm high
Number of components: 65

Sapphire crystals:
High domed sapphire crystal on top with anti-reflective coating on both sides; sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating on single side

Strap & Buckle:
Black or brown hand-stitched alligator strap with gold tang buckle to match case

Inspiration and Realization: Maximilian Büsser has had a long affinity with pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. Virtually all horological complications we see today were not only imagined in that period, they were developed using just paper and pen (no sophisticated computer programs), components were produced to extremely high precision using – by today’s standards – fairly primitive machines (no electricity) and finely finished, assembled and regulated to an incredibly high quality that we still strive to match today. Their generous size compared with modern wristwatches allowed for uncluttered movement architectures with beautifully shaped bridges and plates.

While MB&F’s futuristic Horological Machines have a firm foundation in the very best of traditional horology, Büsser wanted to pay homage to that rich tradition by imagining the type of timepiece he might create if he had been born 100 years earlier, in 1867 instead of 1967. With its large, sedately oscillating balance, domed dials, historical bridge design and classical fine-finishing, Legacy Machine No.1 is the very contemporary, yet traditionally elegant, fruition of that dream.

Engine: LM1’s ingenious three-dimensional movement was specifically developed for MB&F from Maximilian Büsser’s sketches by Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode in Le Locle, Switzerland. The balance wheel and spring are at the very heart of any mechanical watch movement and are responsible for regulating timekeeping accuracy. Büsser has long been fascinated by the large slowly oscillating – 18,000 bph compared with the 28,800 bph common today – balance wheels of antique pocket watches, so it was no surprise this was his starting point from which to let his fertile imagination roam free. What was surprising though is just how radically he re-interpreted tradition by relocating the balance wheel from its more usual position hidden at the back of the movement to not just the top of the movement but majestically floating above the movement… even floating above the dials!

While the location of Legacy Machine No.1’s regulating organ may be considered avant-garde, ‘tradition’ is upheld by the large 14mm diameter balance wheel with regulating screws specifically developed for MB&F, balance spring with Breguet overcoil and mobile stud holder.

Another very special feature of the LM1 movement is the ability to set the two time zones completely independently. The vast majority of dual time zone movements only allow the hours to be independently adjusted, a rare few offer setting to the half hour. Legacy Machine No.1 allows both hours and minutes of each dial to be set to whatever time the user wishes.

The world’s first vertical power reserve indicator on LM1 is driven by an ultra-flat differential with ceramic bearings allowing for a slimmer complication and a more robust and longer-wearing mechanism.

Dial and Indications: The rate keeping of the twin dials is controlled by the same regulator (balance and escapement) so that once set, the two times stay perfectly synchronised with each other. Both the hours AND minutes on both dials can be set to any time desired via their respective crowns.

Complementing the three-dimensionality of the balance floating in space, the dual white dials with their bright blue gold hands float above the top of the movement. The dials are gently domed with a translucent, high-gloss lustre created using a laque tendue process in which multiple layers of lacquer are applied and heated, causing them to stretch over the surface of the dials.

To ensure aesthetic purity of the dials and their traditional Roman numerals, a sophisticated fixation underneath negates the necessity of visually obtrusive used screws. A fine golden perimeter circumscribing each dial elegantly reinforces their timeless classicism.

Fine Finishing and Historical Legitimacy: Acclaimed master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen assumed responsibility for ensuring the historical accuracy of the style and finishing of the Legacy Machine No.1 movement. No easy task with such an unconventional suspended-balance design from which to begin.

A finely engraved sun-ray pattern on top of the movement plate (dial side) subtly catches the eye at certain angles without distracting attention from the twin white dials, floating balance or vertical power. But it is in the style and finish of the bridges and plates visible through the display on the back of the movement where Kari Voutilainen has excelled in providing exquisite historical fidelity in both the shape of elegantly curved bridges and the traditionally wide space between the bridges and between the perimeter of the bridges and the case.

On the back of the movement, over-sized ruby jewels set in highly-polished countersunk gold chatons provide striking visual counterpoints to the Geneva waves traversing the sensually curved bridges. While providing historical links with the large jewels seen in high-grade antique pocket watch movements, the ruby bearings have a practical application in reducing wear/increasing longevity by accommodating large diameter pinions and holding more lubricating oil.

NEW MODELS - CHOPARD - JACKY ICKX EDITION V

2011-09-27T15:03:00.000-04:00

Chopard introduces the fifth edition Jacky Ickx chronograph.
Case back engraved with Jacky Ickx's signature.
24-hour chronograph counter at 6 (novel)
49-jewel movement
Diameter (case): 42.40mm
Thickness (case): 14.23mm

Steel limited to 2,000 pieces
Rose gold limited to 500 pieces

NEW MODEL - HUBLOT - Classic Fusion Chronograph Yacht Club de Monaco

2011-09-20T11:32:00.000-04:00

In tribute to the Yacht Club de Monaco and this year's celebrations marking the 10th anniversary of the Monaco Classic Week, which takes place from the 14th to the 18th September 2011, Hublot has created a Classic Fusion Chronograph

Classic Fusion Chronograph Yacht Club de Monaco

Reference: 521.NX.5117.LR YCM11
Series: limited edition of 250 pieces numbered from 001/250 to 250/250
Case: "Classic Fusion" - Diameter 45 mm. Polished titanium with satin-finished end-pieces
Bezel: satin-finished titanium. 6 titanium H-shaped countersunk, polished & locked screws
Crown: polished titanium
Push-buttons: polished titanium
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Case-back: satin-finished titanium. Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflective treatment
Crown: satin-finished polished titanium with Hublot logo
Screw: titanium
Water resistance: 5 ATM or approximately 50 meters
Dial: navy blue with silver-plated counters and appliques
Hands: faceted, diamond-polished, skeleton, rhodium-plated
Movement: HUB 1143 Automatic mechanical chronograph
Nbr. of components: 280
Ruby: 59
Bridges: satin-finished, beveled and polished
Date: rectangular window at 6 o'clock
Screw: black PVD
Oscillating weight: tungsten carbide with black PVD treated dimpled surface
Barrel: reinforced spring
Escapement: Glucydur hairspring
Power reserve: approximately 42 hours
Strap: navy blue gummy alligator stitched onto black rubber
Clasp: Steel deployant buckle

NEW MODEL - IWC - Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia

2011-09-20T11:26:00.000-04:00

Sidereal time (based on earth's rotation measured relative to fixed stars - and about 4 minutes shorter than an average solar day) and solar time (the good old 365¼ days each measuring precisely 24 hours) are brought together in this masterpiece from IWC.

The watch was unveiled to the screams of howling teenage journalists (not really, but I'm setting the scene here) in the Chilean desert at Cerro Paranal. It is there, that one finds the Very Large Telescope Array, the most advanced optical instrument of its kind with 4 x 8.2 meter Unit Telescopes and 4 x 1.8 meter movable telescopes. Put in perspective, just one of these 8.2 meter bad-boys can resolve an object, wait for it - four billion (that's four thousand million) times fainter than what can be seen with the unaided eye!

The most conspicuous feature of this new and highly complex timepiece is the constant-force tourbillon, which dominates the dial. But the reverse side of the watch is no less impressive. Neatly packed into the tiny space are a celestial chart, horizon, geographical coordinates, solar time, sidereal time, sunrise and sunset display as well as a display showing daytime, night-time and twilight. And behind the display showing the number of day, of course, is a completely integrated perpetual calendar.

Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia

Ref. 5041
Features
- Mechanical movement, new balance with two adjustment cams and two adjustment weights, Breguet spring, two barrels, constant power tourbillon
- Dial side displays: 24-hour display (sidereal time), sidereal time and solar time can be set separately, power reserve display
- Rear side displays: Customized celestial chart and horizon, sunrise and sunset display, sidereal time and solar time, day, night and dusk display under celestial chart, perpetual calendar with display showing leap years and number of day

Movement
- Calibre 94900
- Frequency 18,000 A/ h / 2.5 Hz
- Jewels 56
- Power reserve 4 days (96 h)
- Winding hand-wound

Watch

- Materials: Case material as specified by customer (e.g. platinum or red gold), Strap as specified by customer with IWC folding clasp
- Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
- Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
- Water-resistant: 3 bar
- Diameter: 46 mm
- Height: 17.5 mm

The sidereal time is so accurate, that it deviates over the course of a YEAR, by only 11.5 seconds. And the accuracy is embiggened (are you spreading the use of this word as much as I am?), by the implementation of IWC's constant power mechanism which ensures continuous supply of energy to the balance. This watch also boasts a respectable 4 days of power reserve.

Turn the watch over, and you become mesmerized by the sky chart and perpetual calendar. The calendar is shown in the form of a circular cut-out and counts the days of the year continuously: the 1st of January is day 1, the 31st of December day 365; or, in the case of a leap year – indicated by the letters LY, number 366. This is joined, on the edge of the case back, by a further display that shows the current time of day, the sidereal time as well as sunrise and sunset with arrows in a 24-hour rhythm. Finally, at the center, is the night sky. The horizon, engraved in yellow, shows the night sky as the owner himself sees it at a location of his choice. IWC’s engineers use the coordinates of the individual location to calculate the angle of the horizon and then machine the cams which control the sunrise and sunset display. This means that the customer is not only the owner of an extraordinary watch but also has his own personalized constellation showing the night sky at the geographical position of his choosing. Also linked to this is the background formed by the night sky, which has a polarization filter that makes it appear grey by day and blue by night - pretty cool stuff!

A winder designed specially for the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia ensures that this masterpiece from Schaffhausen continues to show precise times even if the owner chooses not to wear it for a prolonged period. As you might expect, the watch is also accompanied by a magnifying glass to facilitate precise examination of the night sky on the watch as well as comprehensive astronomical documentation. Every Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is unique because, apart from the personal celestial chart on the back cover, the customer can also choose from a wide range of case materials and dial designs, as well as the colour and material of the wristband. In view of the degree of customization and the complexity of the design and mechanism this involves, buyers will have to wait approximately one year for delivery.

Worth the wait I think!

NEW EDITIONS - TAG HEUER - CARRERA RING MASTER

2011-09-20T10:57:00.000-04:00

Happy Tuesday sportsfans!

If you're as interested in Formula 1 racing as I am, you hang on every mention of the series. From our Japanese friends at TAG Heuer, comes mention of the newly introduced Japan Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Ring Master.

Available in 3 distinctive flavors:
Alain Prost (Red) - 350 pieces;
Lewis Hamilton model (yellow) - 500 pieces;
Jenson Button (Blue) - 500 pieces

These watches are highlighted on the flange with the same color markings as appear on the helmets of these racing wunderkinds - okay Alain Prost is getting on, but he WAS a WUNDERKIND, no doubt about that.

The three versions (all with SS bracelet and all the same price) are
CV201Y.BA0794: Black Dial / Red Ring (Alain Prost model)- SS bracelet with satin finish / polish - ￥420,000 (that's Japanese Yen - at today's rate ￥100,000 is about $1,300)

CV201V.BA0794: Black Dial / Yellow Ring (Lewis Hamilton Model)

CV201X.BA0794: Black Dial / Blue Ring (Jenson Button Model)

The movement is the trusty TAG Heuer Caliber 16; WR is 100m; availability is now.

NEW MODEL - F.P. JOURNE - OCTA UTC

2011-09-15T16:54:00.000-04:00

F.P. JOURNE OCTA UTC

The OCTA Collection reveals the UTC _ Universal Time, Coordinated

Created in the 19th Century, Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) originally referred to solar time at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. Already used by the British navy to calculate their longitude position from the Greenwich meridian, it was introduced in the United Kingdom by the Railway Clearing House in 1847. It was then legally adopted as official time throughout Great Britain in 1880, and then in the entire world for the major part of the 20th Century, before being replaced in 1972 by UTC, Universal Time, Coordinated, due to the inconsistency of average solar time.

GMT is usually used in the watchmaking world to designate watches with a second time zone. GMT is based on terrestrial rotation, while UTC on atomic international time; therefore the two time measurements are close but not the same. Unlike GMT, UTC offers the current view of time zone division directly linked to the real rotation of the earth, and less variable.

F.P.Journe innovates once again with the presentation of the Octa UTC®, a patented system that uses the modern standards of determining time zones in full hours. Mechanically it indicates the different time periods linked with the earth’s geographical positions, including summer and winter hour.

On the dial, the local hours are indicated by the blue hands, and linked to the calendar indicating the current geographical time. The rose gold hand indicates the hour of the second time zone on 24 hours, represented by the earth’s 24 time zones.

UTILIZATION

The hour of the home time zone is set by pushing the small secured pusher at 04h00. After having pulled the crown in position 2, the wearer moves the globe so that the home time zone is positioned on 0 for winter hour. Simultaneously, the gold hand automatically adjusts itself to the corresponding hour of this region. The purpose of the +1 / -1 indicators is to change the specific region for summer hour which is linked to the geographical location of the user depending if its east or west of the chosen zone.

The mechanical movement with automatic winding is manufactured in 18K rose gold, like all F.P.Journe – Invenit et Fecit watch creations. It is constructed on the 1300.3 calibre, and offers an additional complication to the Octa line, still in the same calibre dimensions. The dial features off center hours, minutes and seconds, a retrograde power reserve, a large date, and for the first time, a dial with the earth divided in time zones. The passing of the months from 28 to 31 days is done manually.

The OCTA UTC also features the 22K red gold exclusive off center rotor that winds in one direction only, thanks to an exclusive self-blocking ceramic ball bearing system. Every infinitesimal movement is thus maximally exploited for an optimized winding of the watch. In 2001, F.P.Journe presented the OCTA collection composed of mechanical wristwatches with automatic winding featuring an exceptional power reserve of 5 days (120h), all with the same case thickness regardless of the complication.

Technical Specification - OCTA UTC

Movement:
Automatic Calibre FPJ 1300-3 in 18K rose gold (4N)
Unidirectional automatic winding
Off-center 22K gold guilloché winding rotor

Three position crown:
Correction of 24h time zones in position 2, clockwise
Correction of date in position 2, anti clockwise and
Correction of time in position 3
Instant jump calendar
Rotation of the earth by secured correction pusher at 4h

Dimensions of the movement:
Overall diameter: 30.80 mm
Casing-up diameter: 30.40 mm
Overall height: 5.85 mm
Height of winding stem: 3.00 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S0.90 mm

Indications:
Off center hours and minutes / off center timezones /
Small second at 4h30 / Earth dial divided in timezones
at 7h30 / winter summer hour / large date /
power reserve at 9h

Decoration:
Circular Côtes de Genève on 18K gold bridges
Circular graining on 18K gold baseplate
Polished screw heads with chamfered slots
Chamfered and circular grained wheels, diamond-molded
Pegs with polished rounded ends

Escapement: Escapement 15 tooth

Balance:
Four adjustable inertia weights
Anachron free-sprung flat balance spring
Mobile stud holder
Nivatronic laser soldered balance spring
Pinned GE stud
Frequency: 21'600 Alt/h, 3 Hz
Inertia: 10.10 mgcm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0 h dial up : > 300°
24 h dial up : > 280° Autonomy : 120+/- 12heures

Dial:
White or red gold
Hours and minutes, small second in silvered guilloché
Date display in silver

Case:
Platinum or red 18K gold
Diameter: 38 or 40 mm
Height: 10.6 mm

Number of parts: Movement without dial - 301

Cased up with strap: 342

Number of jewels: 40

Winding Speed: 274 anti clock-wise rotations per 24 hours

UPDATED COLLECTION - BREITLING - COLT II

2011-09-15T16:33:00.003-04:00

Breitling's Colt collection has been around for quite some time. I remember coveting one as a youth, sure that its sporty motif would stamp an imprimatur of approval on my quest to be a fighter pilot.

Now, in 2011, Breitling have completely redesigned their entire line of popular Colt models. This is a watch that means business. It features water resistance to either 300 meters (about 1,000 feet) or 500 meters (about 1,650 feet). The bezel shape is distinctive and the standard diving numerals are revised for the modern digital era with a suitably contemporary font type. Even the dial has new rounded numerals.

There are three versions. The standard hour, minute, center seconds and date timepiece; a chronograph, and a ladies model that mimics the mens' model but sells in a smaller casing. All models feature Breitling's Trademarked SuperQuartz and are COSC certified for near-absolute precision.

The chronograph version is water resistant to 300m and exhibits a 1/10th second split second chronograph and fast timezone-change system. The case is a modern but modest 44mm.

Movement: Caliber 73, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, thermocompensated SuperQuartz™, fast timezone adjustment. 1/10th of a second chronograph, 60-minute and 12-hour totalizers with split times (split-second hand). Calendar.
Case: Steel. Water-resistant to 300 m (1,000 ft/30 bars). Screw-locked crown. Unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel. Sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides.
Diameter: 44 mm.
Dials: Volcano Black (shown in top range image), Stratus Silver (shown above), Gun Blue (shown 2 above).
Straps/bracelet: Leather, rubber Ocean Racer (perforated), rubber Diver Pro (with raised central ridge)/Professional.

The mens COLT 44 (does that remind anyone of a handgun?) features a 500m water resistance. It shares the 44mm diameter case size with its chronograph brother.

Movement: Caliber 74, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, thermocompensated SuperQuartz™. Battery end-of-life indicator. Calendar.
Case: Steel. Water-resistant to 500 m (1,650 ft/50 bars). Screw-locked crown. Unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel. Sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides.
Diameter: 44 mm. Dials: Volcano Black (shown below), Stratus Silver, Gun Blue.
Straps/bracelet: Leather, rubber Ocean Racer (perforated), rubber Diver Pro (with raised central ridge)/ Professional.

The ladies COLT 33 (as in 33mm diameter) is also WR to 500 meters.

Movement: Caliber 77, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, thermocompensated SuperQuartz™. Battery end-of-life indicator. Calendar.
Case: Steel. Water-resistant to 500 m (1,650 ft/50 bars). Screw-locked crown. Unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel. Sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides.
Diameter: 33 mm

Dials: Volcano Black, Stratus Silver (shown above), Gun Blue.
Straps/Bracelet: Leather, rubber Diver Pro (with raised central ridge)/ Professional.

NEW COMPLICATIONS - JAEGER LECOULTRE - THREE COMPLICATIONS

2011-09-15T16:14:00.000-04:00

Master Eight Days Perpetual 40

Pink gold case measuring 40mm
Perpetual calendar with an eight-day power reserve; twin barrels
Mechanically programmed to require no manual correction before the year 2100
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 876-440B.

Master Ultra Thin Moon

At just 4.9 mm thick, the new ultra-thin automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 925 movement associates the indications that are indispensable in an accurate watch – hours, minutes and seconds – with two additional functions meeting different and complementary demands: the date and moon phases. Both appear on a single counter in the sunray brushed dial center, with a delicately shaped arrow pointing to the date.

Master Geographic

39mm case diameter
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 939A

It displays local time by means of large central hour, minute and seconds hands. Meanwhile, the names of the cities representing each of the 24 time zones glide past on the lower part of the dial, in some cases bearing the letter “S” for “Summertime” in order to enable the user to take account of a possible half-yearly change in legal time. The second time zone selected via a crown appears in a counter at 6 o’clock. The dial also provides other information such as the power reserve and date counter.

NEW MODELS - BELL & ROSS - BR 01 AIRBORNE II AND TOURBILOON AIRBORNE

2011-09-15T15:47:00.000-04:00

The US Airborne divisions adopted the skull and crossbones in World War II as a sort of talisman representing the inherent danger of their missions. Frankly, viewing this kind of symbol on an hourly basis as I stared at my watch would probably scare me to death. It's certainly not Smurfy!

The BR 01 AIRBORNE sports an aged steel case, giving the original model the character and appearance of a watch which has acquired a patina over time. This «rifle barrel» finish is achieved by repeated random rubbings. This technique, which in no way alters the material, makes each piece unique.

The crystal, marked with a «jaw» index transferred onto the underside, and the brown leather strap, tanned like old leather with tone-on-tone stitching, gives this watch its inimitable style.

Technical Characteristics
Movement: self-winding mechanical - ETA 2892
Functions: hours and minutes.
Case: 46 mm diameter. Stainless steel, black PVD finish. Screw-in crown.
2D dial: black
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Water resistance: 100 meters.
Straps: leather and heavy-duty canvas.

The BR 01 TOURBILLON AIRBORNE incorporates four additional watchmaking complications that blend perfectly into the skull and crossbones dial: a tourbillon, a precision indicator, a regulator and a power reserve indicator.

Technical Characteristics
Movement: mechanical with manual winding. Carbon fiber mainplates and bridges. Tourbillon carriage with black gold finish.
Complications and functions: Tourbillon. Regulator. Power reserve indicator (five days). Precision indicator.
Case: 46 mm diameter. DLC-finish titanium.
Titanium screw-in crown. Sapphire caseback.
3D dial: photoluminescent black with mesh-like design.
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire.
Water resistance: 50 meters.
Straps: shagreen and rubber.

NEW WATCH - CORUM - GRAND PRECIS

2011-09-08T14:17:00.000-04:00

A revival of the 1957 Grand Precis has been announced by Corum.

Limited to 100 pieces in 18K Rose Gold and 50 pieces in 18K White Gold.
Case has been embiggened (wink) from 36mm to 38.5mm.

18,000vph, 38-hour power reserve, 17 jewels.

NEW WATCH - JAQUET DROZ - GRANDE SECONDE QUANTIEME

2011-09-08T14:08:00.003-04:00

No longer offered in only precious metal or ceramic, this piece is now available in steel. Two new models with all-black dials, and one with a silvery-white dial. The dials have been created from solid metal and then dipped in a chemical bath.

Date indicated via subdial at 6.

Available October 2011.

Technical Data
Movement: Jaquet Droz 2660Q2, self-winding mechanical movement, double barrel, heavy metal oscillating weight
Indications: off-centered hours and minutes, large seconds subdial, pointer-type date display at 6 o'clock
Jeweling: 30 jewels
Power reserve: 68 hours
Frequency: 28,800 v.p.h
Case: stainless steel, diameter Ø 43 mm, individual serial number engraved on the case-back
Water resistance: to 3 bar (30 meters)

Reference: J007030240
Dial: all-black technical dial
Hands: hours, minutes, seconds and dates with black gold finish, date with red varnished tip

Reference: J007030241
Dial: all-black technical dial, indications with a fine-brushed finish
Hands: hours, minutes, seconds and dates with rhodium treatment, date with red varnished tip

Reference: J007030242
Dial: silvery white opaline dial and applied ring
Hands: hours, minutes, seconds and dates in blued steel, date with red varnished tip

Strap: rolled-edge hand made black alligator leather strap
Buckle: stainless steel folding clasp

NEW WATCH - TAG HEUER - FORMULA 1 LADY STEEL CERAMIC PAVE

2011-08-24T16:53:00.000-04:00

WAH1219.BA085
Black diamond dial with black ceramic & steel bracelet
Movement: ETA F05.111 - Quartz Watch - Date
Dial: Black diamond dial
64 Wesselton diamonds
54 diamonds in the middle with diameter 0.90 mm
10 diamonds for indexes with diameter 1 mm
Total 0.175 ct

Luminescent markers on polished minute and hour hands
Protruded TAG Heuer logo
Date window at 3 o’clock

Case diameter: 37mm
Polished stainless steel case
Polished stainless steel & ceramic fixed bezel with 84 Wesselton diamonds
84 diamonds with diameter 1.10 mm
Total 0.47 ct

Sapphire crystal
Polished stainless steel bumpers protecting the crown
Polished screw-in crown
Polished screw fitted case back
Water resistance: 200 meters
Bracelet: 5-row alternate polished steel & black ceramic bracelet
Solid steel “butterfly” folding clasp with safety push buttons

AWESOMENESS - URWERK - UR-1001 Zeit Device Über Complication

2011-08-24T14:08:00.006-04:00

Definition: Zeit (German) = Time

Watch Happening welcomes the announcement of the Zeit Device, a self-proclaimed and aptly termed Über Complication.

The UR-1001 marks the passage of time in seconds, minutes, hours, day/night, date, month, years, 100 years and all of the way to a monumental 1,000 years!

The Zeit Device houses a constellation of indications, including orbiting satellites and a comet-like flying retrograde. Dials, springs, satellites, carrousels, retrograde spiral spring were all manufactured in-house by URWERK, as were most of the components in the Zeit Device's complications and indications

Limited to 8 pieces, in steel and titanium.

UR-1001 - Complications in Detail

Dial side
Hour Satellite Complication. The Hour Satellite Complication of the Zeit Device is a ‘flying’ design in that there is no top bridge supporting the carrousel. The mechanism requires a bottom support only, which allows maximum appreciation of the satellite hour and retrograde minute complications

The complication comprises a rotating central carrousel supporting three hour satellites, each cubic satellite marked with four hour numbers on their four faces. As the carrousel turns, the satellites not telling the time rotate on their vertical axis so that their top number has the new hour ready to replace the old. Hours and minutes are able to be set backwards without affecting the calendar functions

Retrograde Minute Hand: The Retrograde Minute Hand is fixed to a sprung ring around the circumference of the satellite complication. This ring is pushed along a guide rail by the hour satellite. A swan’s neck spring on each arm of the carrousel engages two coaxial star-cams that slide along the guide rail carrying the minute hand. When the minute hand gets to the end of the rail at 60 minutes, the star-cams trip over to release the minute hand, which springs back to zero at the start of the scale where it rendezvous with the next satellite hour. A small bar of platinum on the sprung ring acts as a counterweight to the minute hand pointer. A safety device ensures that the minute hand cannot rotate past 63 minutes, even in case of a shock

Day Night and Power Reserve Indicator: The Day/Night indicator is a rotating disc marked with Black Super-LumiNova for the night, white brushed-ruthenium for day and a striped mix for dusk/dawn. While useful in its own right, the Day/Night indicator comes into its own when setting the calendar mechanism to ensure that the date changes at midnight rather than midday

The Power Reserve indicator monitors the amount of power in the mainspring up to 39 hours and features a red warning zone to remind the owner when the Zeit Device needs refuelling

Revolving Satellite Calendar: The Revolving Satellite Calendar is an original – both technically and graphically – calendar complication completely developed in-house by URWERK. Visually it is in the same family as the hour satellite complication, with months and date replacing hours and retrograde minutes. However, whereas the hours rotate across the minutes with unchanging 60-minute regularity, the month automatically adjusts the last date on the calendar complication according to whether it has 30 or 31 days

Felix Baumgartner URWERK co-founder and chief watchmaker - reveals how the mechanism works: “At the end of 30 day months — April, June, September and November — the date advances automatically to the 1st of the following month. The date wheel has 93 teeth and goes around in three months carrying the three-armed carousel. Mounted on the date wheel are three Maltese crosses, each corresponding to a satellite of four months at the opposite end of the date wheel. At the end of the short months, a finger on a Maltese cross intervenes to make the date wheel advance two days to the next month.”

Back side: Turning the UR-1001 over and flipping over the protective cover reveals an alternative universe of longer timescale indications to those on the front. The dominating feature through the display back is the underneath of the hour satellite complication and retrograde minute mechanism, its dark surface set off by bright ruby bearings. The “Oil Change”, 100-year and 1000-year are long-term indications lying under a protective cover on the back of the Zeit Device and are driven by the operation of the movement

“Oil Change” indicator: The shortest time interval measured on the back is the 5-year “Oil Change” indicator at centre right, which alerts the user when a service is due after three years when the dial changes from white (years one to three) to red (years three to five). This is counter is reset to zero when the timepiece is serviced

100-year indicator: The 100-year indicator advances in 5-year increments and acts like the odometer of a car. Where a car’s odometer keeps track of the total distance number at vehicle has driven, the 100-year and 1000-year indicators of the UR-1001 register the total running time of the movement

1000-year indicator: When the hand reaches the 100-year mark, the small pointer at the bottom of the 1000-year indicator on the left takes a small – small for the Zeit Device, but a giant leap for mankind – 100-year step upwards on its imperceptibly slow, but deliberate journey to a new millennium

Case: The case of the UR-1001 is in AlTiN coated stainless steel. AlTiN – Aluminium Titanium Nitride – is an industrial surface treatment originally developed to reduce the wear of machine cutting tools. The very properties that make AlTiN suitable for industrial applications, e.g. increased oxidation resistance and hardness, coupled with its semi-matte black colour make it an ideal high-tech coating to protect the Zeit Device.

Martin Frei, URWERK co-founder and chief designer, explains: “To ensure the UR-1001 was both pleasing to hold and comfortable to wear, I carried a carved block of wood that I shaped and modified over months. The mock-up only took form in metal only when I was 100 per cent sure that the three-dimensional shape worked on both a tactile and visual level.”
Fine finishing: The fine finishing and decoration throughout the case, dials and components of the Zeit Device are a harmonious blend of the contemporary and the traditional, echoing URWERK’s ethos of 21st century watchmaking based on a solid foundation of the very best in traditional horology. Circular lines engraved into the top of the case give hint to the fact that the form of the Zeit Device’s case is actually a circle with cut sides. Clous de Paris guilloche on the dial provides both a rich texture and a pleasing contrast with the flat surfaces on the indications. The satellites and their hands feature diamond-cut bevels that reflect light during the day, while flush embedded white Super-LumiNova ensures legible reading of the time at night. Clous de Paris guilloche surfaces continue on the back of the timepiece and in a tip of the hat to URWERK’s home, Geneva waves (Côtes de Genève) are engraved on sections of the bridge supporting the base of the Hour Satellite Complication

ARCAP: URWERK is one of a very few watch brands – perhaps the only – making extensive use of ARCAP in their timepieces. ARCAP alloys are a proprietary group of alloys that do not contain iron and so are non-magnetic. They have very high tensile strength and they are resistant to oxidation – unlike the commonly used brass that has to be plated – chemical corrosion, low temperatures and are stable under temperature changes. And compared to brass, ARCAP is more stable when machined and does not retain tension, which makes it able to be machined to higher precision. ARCAP’s advantages do not come free of charge and it wears machine tools out at a 5X higher rate than brass. In the UR-1001, the mainplate, baseplate, carrousels, satellites, dials, bridges, retrograde spiral spring and retrograde u-springs are all in ARCAP

Winder/Display case: The combined automatic winder and display case of the Zeit Device is in polished, solid walnut with buffalo leather lining. The case can sit on a desk with the timepiece securely held (push-fit) in a vertical position with the dial side in full view. Every 10 or 15 minutes – the interval is adjustable according to whether the timepiece requires fast winding or maintaining winding – the Zeit Device is rotated 185° and slowly oscillates to rest, causing a winding rotor to charge the mainspring. Keeping the Zeit Device wound in this way minimises the necessity of having to reset the calendar functions after the movement has stopped

UR-1001 - Technical Specifications
Movement
Calibre: UR-10.01
Jewels: 51
Escapement: Swiss lever
Balance: Monometallic
Frequency: 28,800v/h, 4Hz
Balance spring: Flat
Power source: Single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 39 hours
Winding system: Unidirectional winding rotor
Time mechanism: Double star retrograde with aluminium ring and platinum counterweight
Calendar mechanism: 93 tooth wheel, 3 Maltese crosses
Retrograde minutes: Anti-shock safety device
Retrograde minute spring: Spiral of 6.5 turns, dimensions 174.4mm x 0.1mm x 0.3mm with mobile piton (adjustable pin). Long length ensures flat torque curve
Plates and bridges: Baseplate in ARCAP
Screws: Titanium non-oxidising

Surface finishes: Circular-grained, Côtes de Genève and DLC treated mainplate and baseplate, chamfered and polished screw heads

Indications

Dial side
Revolving satellite hour complication
Retrograde minutes
Revolving satellite calendar with months and dates
Day/night indicator: black Super-LumiNova for night, white brushed-ruthenium for day, mix for dusk/dawn
Power-reserve indicator 39 hours with red low-power zone
Running seconds: three-handed indication displaying 3 x 20 seconds on a 120° dial
Côtes de Genève on Day/Night and Power Reserve indicator dials

Back side
“Oil change” indicator (5 years)
Running-time indicator for 100 years
Linear running-time indicator for 1,000 years

Surface finishes
Sandblasted carousel
PE-CVD and DLC treated mainplate, baseplate, dials and satellite complications
Satin-finished and diamond-polished satellites
Super-LumiNova treatment on markers

Setting and winding
Three-position winding crown
Position 1 against case: winding
Position 2 one click: month and date
Position 3 two clicks: setting hours and minutes

Case
The AlTiN UR-1001 Zeit Device is a limited edition of 8 pieces in AlTiN treated steel with titanium elements
Material: AlTiN steel with titanium elements
Chain: Hand-made, heat-blackened steel links featuring bespoke URWERK
clasp with carbineer closure
Dimensions: 106mm x 62mm x 23mm
Glasses: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: Pressure-tested to 3ATM
Surface finishes: Micro-sandblasted

My opinion: Black-treatment notwithstanding, this is a tour de force in watchmaking. An example of what is possible when the limitations of form-factor are not present, allowing the mind of the watchmaker to innovate from a blank canvas. True, this watch borrows much from earlier Urwerk models, but it also shows that true watchmakers are dreamers just like you and me. I have been a long time fan of Urwerk. This model cements my respect and admiration for the brand, its founders and its mission.

NEW WATCH - ROGER DUBUIS - BLACK SWAN DIVE WATCH

2011-08-23T16:55:00.003-04:00

Watchtime.net has just blogged about a new 88 piece edition from Roger Dubuis called the black swan. It combines scratch resistant ceramic with stainless steel and comes in three choices of dials.

Water resistant to 300 meters. Geneva seal. 46mm case diameter on black rubber band. MSRP: 13,900 euros.

I really hope that the black pvd, black ceramic, blacksteel, black black black trend comes to a close sometime soon. The watch industry seems to travel in lockstep with the aviation and motor industry. And the motor industry moves in lockstep with the aviation industry. So if you want to know what watches will look like in 10 years, just follow aviation trends.

What do I mean? Lamborghini was one of the first in recent memory to model their supercars on high-end flying machines like the F22 raptor. Tell me that the Aventador doesn't look like a road-going F22! Or that half of the prototypes at the latest motor shows don't borrow heavily on the styling of the latest flying machines.

The black-look trend in timepieces borrows heavily from the car industry. Has anyone noticed the matte-black car finishes that have popped up lately? And not just in prototypes at car shows. They're everywhere. Take a drive down any main street, and you're sure to observe at least 3 or 4 examples of people who have traded-in practicality for fashion. Matte finishes are notoriously difficult to clean and forget about waxing them.

Which brings me back to the black is in trend. Stop! Yes, the black look is very attractive on some watches and even on the Roger Dubuis Black Swan, above, it looks good. But does everyone have to dive into a trend? My hat goes off to Patek Philippe, one of the few watchmakers that just ignores these transient fashion obscurities and focuses on longevity in their watch styling. Who reading this thinks that black watches are going to be fashionable ten years from now? I certainly do not. And when you're investing $10,000 or more on a watch that you will probably wear for the next 30 years, don't you think that should be a consideration?

Breitling, Cartier, Hublot, Tag Heuer - enough! And Rolex, I thought you were above this. The new Rose Gold and Black Ceramic Daytona may be technologically marvelous, but there is no need to bow to fashion trends to create your watches. People will buy them anyway.

Diatribe over. Now where's my Blacksteel Super Avenger?

NEW WATCH - HUBLOT - CHUKKER BANG

2011-08-22T16:59:00.001-04:00

Polo is a rough gentleman's sport. Jaeger LeCoultre's Reverso acknowledges this, by allowing the watch wearer to reverse the watch case to prevent crystal damage.

Hublot's solution is a grille that can be affixed to the bezel that covers the sapphire crystal to protect it during the rough and tumble of Polo playing. Observe: Watch image on left without grille. Watch image on right with grille.

In addition to the improved case protection, this watch, featuring the HUB1141, also exhibits a 7 minute 30 second counter at 9 to reflect a single period of Polo play known as a "chukka" (awful name, isn't it?). The chronograph also features a 30-second central seconds hand (as apposed to the more common 60-second varieties).

The limited edition "chukker bang" is available in a numbered series of 500 pieces, or for the more well-heeled, a diamond-set grille version.

Ref: 317.NM.1137.VR (Titanium LE of 500)
Ref: 317.NX.2136.VR.1104 (Titanium with diamond grille)

WATCH UPDATE - REBELLION - RE-1 CHRONOGRAPH

2011-08-22T16:45:00.001-04:00

PRESS RELEASE: For 2011, watch-designer Eric Giroud has re-examined and re-worked the distinctive case he developed for Rebellion’s imposing RE-1 Chronograph. The RE-1 has undergone a revamp to emphasize its strength and power. The attention to detail has refined the look with deft and subtle changes, and yet one might even liken it to a rebirth.

A robust housing for the highly-tuned automatic movement, on a Concepto base, the RE-1 Chronograph’s chassis features Rebellion’s distinctive signature helical screw heads, with a large diameter crown that is both intrinsically masculine and easier to use. The new wedge-shaped chronograph pushers fall readily to hand: each pusher’s sloped surface follows the arc of a finger as it presses down, in turn creating an operational experience that provides a tactile sensation to match the aesthetic.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Case: modular construction
Case materials: available in red gold/stainless steel/black steel DLC/Titanium
Sapphire crystals: compound curves, beveled edges, anti-reflection coating on both sides, display back
Chronograph pushers: start/stop at 2 o’clock, return-to-zero at 4 o’clock
Dimensions: 46x56.7x19.6mm
Water resistance: 50m

Movement: RE-1 automatic winding
Movement size: 13¼ lines
Balance frequency: 28,800 A/h (4Hz)
Number of jewels: 27
Power reserve: 50 hours

Straps: Black rubber with double folding buckle

I'm not quite sure about this brand. I think what they are trying to achieve is admirable, but change merely for the sake of change isn't always the best solution.

A square wheel, for instance, would be a wild departure for wheel-makers, but it wouldn't be very practical. I like the overall design of these timepieces, but somehow, it looks like an agglomeration of several other watch brands in one.

To wit, the chrono-pushers and crown are reminiscent of a Richard Mille RM011. The small seconds hand reminds me of the Zenith El-Primero chronographs. The screws look way too much like MB&F's. I don't understand the centralized chronograph second hand. Can it really function efficiently with so much of a counterweight? What Rebellion has going for it is a fairly unique case design, but is that enough for the fickle and demanding watch-consuming public? I'm not so sure.

Why don't you weight in with your opinion? Am I way off base here?

NEW WATCH - IWC - Plastiki

2011-08-17T17:08:00.000-04:00

Commemorating the successful mission of The “Plastiki” expedition, IWC presents an addition to the Ingenieur watch family: a limited special edition of the Ingenieur Automatic Mission Earth Edition “Plastiki”.

This watch is an homage to the feat of the British adventurer David de Rothschild and his crew, who sailed across the Pacific in 2010 in their pioneering and one-of-a-kind catamaran, the “Plastiki”, a 12 ton vessel held afloat by 12,500 reclaimed plastic bottles. The catamaran sailed from San Francisco to Sydney on a mission to draw global attention to the health of our oceans, in particular the colossal amounts of plastic waste choking the waves.

The Ingenieur Automatic Mission Earth Edition “Plastiki”, Reference 3236, is limited to 1,000 timepieces.

RAYMOND WEIL - 35 YEARS

2011-08-17T16:50:00.002-04:00

Raymond Weil was a believer at a time when the watch industry was in deep crisis. Founded in 1976, the eponymous company remains a relatively affordable Swiss watch brand.

It takes some people aback when they realize that most RW watch collections are named for famous musical operas; Don Giovani, Othello, Parsifal....

The new "maestro" follows this musical theme and is the name given to RW's 35th Anniversary edition.

With the maestro 35th Anniversary Edition, RAYMOND WEIL is presenting a watch complication to mark the occasion. Maestro is a mechanical watch with automatic winding, moon phase complication, two counters for the day and month, and a full-skin alligator strap. It is fashioned in 18 ct. yellow gold and is 39mm in diameter.

UPDATED COLLECTION - BAUME & MERCIER - HAMPTON

2011-08-17T15:59:00.002-04:00

Inspired by the discreet luxury lifestyle of the Hamptons at the end of Highway 27 on New York's Long Island, Baume & Mercier's Hampton collection was originally introduced way back in 1994.

The collection update was unveiled at 2011's SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie).

The Hampton collection was first inspired by Baume-et-Mercier's Museum piece from the 1940s. Its notable highlights were a curved caseband, curved crystal and a classic rectangular shape.

The ladies collection is offered in a 27mm x 40mm case size with a variety of dial colors and wristbands, and with or without diamonds.

The men's (if it's ladies, then why not mens?) collection is offered in a 32mm x 45mm rectangular case size for the simple complications and 30mm x 47mm for the chronographs. These too, are offered in a variety of dial colors and band options and have straight casebands (that's the side of the case). For the Art Deco-inspired curvilinear pieces, the case size expands to 34mm x 47mm.

I have always been a fan of the Hampton collection. It's offerings are simple and elegant and priced appropriately in a horological world burdened with overpriced haute horlogerie. My favorite is the discreet Hampton 10026 (right below).

Herewith, a fairly comprehensive detailing of the new collection.

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10026

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10026
Movement: Automatic (ETA 2895)
Functions: Date
Small second
Case: Rectangular
Size : 32 x 45mm
Thickness : 10.85 mm
Polished / satin-finished steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished and opaline silver-colored
Riveted Arabic numerals
Blued steel hands
Bracelet : Black alligator
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10027

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10027
Movement: Automatic (ETA 2895)
Functions: Date
Small second
Case: Rectangular
Size : 32 x 45mm
Thickness : 10.85 mm
Polished / satin-finished steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished anthracite & opaline black
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Black alligator
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10028

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10028
Movement: Automatic (ETA 2895)
Functions: Date
Small second
Case: Rectangular
Size : 32 x 45 mm
Thickness : 10.85 mm
Polished / satin-finished steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished brown & opaline black
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Dark brown alligator
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10029

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10029
Movement: Automatic (ETA 2894)
Functions: Chronograph
Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 34.3 x 48.4 mm
Thickness : 12.85 mm
Polished / satin-finished steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished & opaline silver-colored
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Dark brown alligator
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10030

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10030
Movement: Automatic (ETA 2894)
Functions: Chronograph
Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 34.3 x 48.4 mm
Thickness : 12.85 mm
Polished / satin-finished steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished anthracite & opaline black
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Black alligator
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10031

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10031
Movement: Automatic (ETA 2894)
Functions: Chronograph
Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 34.3 x 48.4 mm
Thickness : 12.85 mm
Polished / satin-finished steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished & opaline copper-colored
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Dark brown alligator
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10032

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10032
Movement: Manufacture, Automatic
Open worked oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève”, snailed décor and PHI symbol
Jewels : 38
Power reserve : 65 hours
Frequency : 4hz
Functions: Chronograph
Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 34 x 47 mm
Thickness : 13.45 mm
Polished steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished silver-colored
Roman numerals
Bracelet : Black alligator
Buckle : Pin buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10033

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10033
Movement: Manufacture, manual (La Joux-Perret 736-3)
Power reserve : 42 hours
Jewels : 21
Frequency : 21’600 hz
Functions: Small second
Case: Rectangular
Size : 29 x 45.5 mm
Thickness : 10.65 mm
Polished 18K red gold
Curved sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished copper-colored
Roman numerals
Bracelet : Dark brown alligator
Buckle : Pin buckle, 18K red gold
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10018

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10018
Movement: Quartz (F03.111)
Functions: Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 27 x 40 mm
Thickness : 9.55 mm
Polished / satin-finished steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished and opaline silver-colored
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Glossy brown alligator
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10019

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10019
Movement: Quartz (F03.111)
Functions: Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 27 x 40 mm
Thickness : 9.55 mm
Polished / satin-finished steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Opaline black & sun satin-finished anthracite
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Black alligator
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10020

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10020
Movement: Quartz (F03.111)
Functions: Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 27 x 40 mm
Thickness : 9.55 mm
Polished / satin-finished steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished and opaline silver-colored
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Polished / satin-finished steel
Clasp : Triple folding claps
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10021

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10021
Movement: Quartz (F03.111)
Functions: Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 27 x 40 mm
Thickness : 9.55 mm
Polished / satin-finished steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Opaline black & sun satin-finished anthracite
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Polished / satin-finished steel
Clasp : Triple folding clasp
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10022

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10022
Movement: Quartz (F03.111)
Functions: Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 27 x 40 mm
Thickness : 9.55 mm
Polished / satin-finished diamond-set* steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Opaline black & sun satin-finished anthracite
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Black satin
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Carats: 0.478 cts
*Round full-cut 32/24 Top Wesselton, VS quality diamonds

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10023

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10023
Movement: Quartz (F03.111)
Functions: Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 27 x 40 mm
Thickness : 9.55 mm
Polished / satin-finished diamond-set* steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished and opaline silver-colored
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Polished / satin-finished steel
Clasp : Triple folding clasp
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Carats: 0.478 cts
*Round full-cut 32/24 Top Wesselton, VS quality diamonds

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10024

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10024
Movement: Quartz (F03.111)
Functions: Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 27 x 40 mm
Thickness : 9.55 mm
Polished / satin-finished diamond-set* steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Opaline black & sun satin-finished anthracite
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Black satin
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Carats: 0.731 cts
*Round full-cut 32/24 Top Wesselton, VS quality diamonds

Technical specifications
HAMPTON 10025

Collection: Hampton
Reference: 10025
Movement: Quartz (F03.111)
Functions: Date
Case: Rectangular
Size : 27 x 40 mm
Thickness : 9.55 mm
Polished / satin-finished diamond-set* steel
Curved sapphire crystal
Decorated case back, fixed with 4 screws
Dial : Sun satin-finished and opaline silver-colored
Riveted Arabic numerals
Bracelet : Glossy white alligator
Buckle : Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistant : 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Carats: 1.78 cts
*Round full-cut 32/24 Top Wesselton, VS quality diamonds

NEW WATCH - ORIS - RAID 2011 LIMITED EDITIONS

2011-08-16T11:12:00.004-04:00

The RAID Suisse-Paris originated in 1991 and involves pre-1975 classic cars participating in a picturesque 600-mile contest that begins in Basel and ends in Paris. Oris, the official time keeper and watch partner of the unique RAID Suisse-Paris rallye, has launched two new distinctive limited edition watches which pay homage to the honorable winner of the RAID 2010: the prestige Austin Healey 100M, 1953.

The intricate dials of both the Oris RAID 2011 Chronograph Edition and Oris RAID 2011 Alarm Edition have been inspired by the characteristic dashboard design of the Austin Healey 100M, 1953 (named after the cars’ ability to exceed 100mph). Enhancing the resilience of each model, the chronograph movement is housed within a stainless steel case with double curved sapphire crystal and a non reflective coating on the inside, whilst the RAID Suisse-Paris logo is exclusively displayed on the case back.

Limited to 500 pieces, the Oris RAID 2011 Chronograph Edition features innovative design functions which are instrumental in assisting the co pilot to time the rallye legs. The number 21 of the date disc is printed in red, in respect to the 21st RAID Suisse-Paris.

The beautifully crafted Oris RAID 2011 Alarm edition, limited to 50 pieces, has a skilfully constructed alarm function with its own central display and red pointer hand which can be easily activated at the touch of a button - enabling the rallye team to accurately target the arrival time.

Presented in a luxury wooden box, the New Oris RAID 2011 Limited Series models are timeless and elegant in design, perfect for classic car and watch lovers alike.

Product Features

Oris RAID 2011 Chronograph Edition
Ref. No. 676 7603 40 94 LB, limited to 500 pieces
- Automatic mechanical movement with date number 21 in red as an homage to the 21st RAID Suisse- Paris
- Stainless steel case with double curved sapphire crystal with non reflective coating on the inside , water resistant to 3 bar
- Case back displays RAID Suisse-Paris logo
- Presented in wooden box and limited edition certificate
- Swiss Retail Price CHF 3’700

Oris RAID 2011 Alarm Edition
Ref. No. 908 7607 4094, limited to 50 pieces

- Automatic mechanical movement with date
- Mechanical alarm with unique sound spring developed by Oris
- Stainless steel case with double curved sapphire crystal with non reflective coating on the inside , water resistant to 3 bar
- Case back displays RAID Suisse-Paris logo
Presented in a wooden box and limited edition certificate
- Swiss Retail Price CHF 7’800

NEW WATCH - IWC - Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium

2011-08-15T16:56:00.001-04:00

The new Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium from IWC Schaffhausen uses the 79230 calibre and is presented in a 45-millimetre titanium case. For the first time, the watch family has a rattrapante. The titanium case is completed in a satin finish, with a silky-matte surface.

New to the model are the five screw heads on the bezel, which are coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC).

To help distinguish the displays, blue was used for the first time. The subdials for hours, minutes and the small (hacking) seconds are recessed into the dial, while the luminescent material in the interstices of the rhodium-plated hands appears black.

For reasons such as the weight and the case height of 16 millimetres, the designers left out the soft-iron inner case. Weighing just 130 grams in total, the watch is fairly lightweight. Water-resistant to 12 bar; Ingenieur rubber strap; sapphire glass with an antireflective coating on both sides; screwed back and crown.

Titanium is 43 per cent lighter than steel, yet stands out for its total corrosion resistance and low thermal and electric conductivity. Titanium also has a unique color.

Technical specifications - Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium

Ref. 3765

Features: Mechanical chronograph movement, self- winding, split-seconds-hand mechanism for intermediate timing, date and day display, small hacking seconds, black rubber-coated push-buttons and crown protection

Movement

Calibre: 79230
Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 29
Power reserve: 44h
Winding: self-winding

Watch
Materials: case and pin buckle in titanium and rubber, black dial with white and blue hands and markers, black rubber strap
Glass: sapphire, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: titanium, screw-in
Crown: screw-in
Water-resistant: 12 bar
Diameter: 45mm
Case height: 16mm

NEW WATCH - BALL - TRAINMASTER CELSIUS

2011-08-15T16:46:00.000-04:00

A watch honoring the inventor of the modern temperature measurement scale.

Anders Celsius, a Swedish scientist born on November 27th, 1701, developed the world’s most widely used temperature measurement scale. As astronomy professor at the University of Uppsala in Sweden, he devoted his life to understanding and studying astronomical and physical phenomena, such as the aurora borealis. It was through his meteorological observations that Anders Celsius developed a temperature measurement scale using 0 as the point at which water solidifies and 100 for its boiling point under normal atmospheric pressure. Use of his measurement scale rapidly spread to the majority of nations. Its unit, the degree Celsius (°C), was officially baptized with the inventor’s name in 1948 by the International System of Units.

Like Anders Celsius in the scientific field, Webb C. Ball can also lay claim to the same pioneering role in the history of watchmaking, as he introduced the first chronometry standards used by the American railroad companies. The system developed by Webb C. Ball at the end of the 19th century was based on such stringent precision criteria that it was used by the Swiss Society of Chronometry (COSC) as the basis for its own certification system in 1973. These same values of precision and reliability shared by the measurement of time and temperature have inspired BALL Watch to create a watch that celebrates the memory of Anders Celsius.

This timepiece is included in the “Trainmaster” series with its models that naturally hark back to the first watches bearing the “BALL’s Standard” marking and which ensured the safety of trains thanks to their unparalleled accuracy. The Trainmaster Celsius has naturally been equipped with the BALL 9018 caliber including the TMT mechanical thermometer module. This function, developed and patented by BALL Watch, measures the outside temperature between -35°C and 45°C with an accuracy of 97% that only a mechanical thermometer can achieve. The thermometer readings are given in increments of 5°C in the half-moon shaped window at six o’clock on the dial.

BALL Watch produces its TMT module using bi-metallic materials of the highest quality. Bands are carefully wound, heat treated, cut according to very precise specifications, their ends folded and then laser welded. The plate and bridge are then custom-manufactured. BALL watchmakers place, decorate and then assemble the jewels and pins. The same procedure also applies to the patented screw adjustment system. This essential component ensures extremely high temperature measurement precision by stabilizing the position of the bi-metallic coil while still allowing it to expand or contract in response to the changing temperature.

The stainless steel case is set off with a crocodile leather strap with pin buckle. The dial and the hand are equipped with the luminescent technology developed by BALL Watch. Micro-tubes of 3H gas, requiring no external source of light or energy and 100 times more effective than conventional luminescent paint, ensure perfect legibility in the dark. As a final homage to the inventor of the modern temperature scale, the caseback bears the portrait of Anders Celsius.

Produced in a limited series of 310 units to commemorate the anniversary of Anders Celsius’s birth, the Trainmaster Celsius is the highest mark of esteem that BALL Watch Company could offer this exceptional scientist whose most renowned invention is still used in our day-to-day lives. Today, more than ever, BALL Watch is continuing its journey and asserting its role as a key protagonist in the evolution of watchmaking history.

Model Number: NT1050D-LJ-SLC

Movement:
Automatic caliber BALL 9018
Cold temperature endurance to -40°
Functions:
15 micro gas tubes on hour, minute, second hands and dial for night reading capability
Thermometric indication (range: from -35°C to 45°C)
Shock resistant to 5,000Gs
Water resistant to 50m/160ft
Hours, minutes, sweep seconds and date

Case:
Stainless steel
Ø41mm, height 12.6mm
Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back with silk-screen printed portrait of Anders Celsius
Screwed-in crown

Band:
Crocodile leather strap with standard buckle

Dial:
Silver

NEW ACQUISITION - JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER COMPRESSOR EXTREME LAB 2 Q2032570

2011-07-19T14:32:00.001-04:00

It has been a long while since I last posted about one of my horological acquisitions. But having read many of your comments to my "what do you want me to blog about?" request, I discovered that these are the most read and appreciated postings.

On to the watch then.

There are so many technical innovations and highlights to this timepiece, that it takes some time to appreciate just how much effort has gone into its production.

Let's start with the overall construction. The watch is manufactured in 18k Rose Gold and has a super-tough ceramic bezel.

Running one's fingers over the bezel is an extraordinary tactile experience. The three concentric ridges on the cold black ceramic base are an exquisitely fine touch and glimmer in the light.

The crown is in Rose Gold with a ceramic enclosure. Rather than pulling the crown out to adjust the watch, the rose gold piece is actually a function-selector. It cycles through the setting of home time, GMT, and winding the timepiece. In the above photograph, you can see to the left of the hour hand, just below the date, a triangular aperture framing the word "SET". This is the currently selected function.

The chronograph pushers are lightly sprung to provide ease-of-use. The reset button in particular is remarkably soft-to-the-touch and easy to activate. The central part of the chronograph start/stop and reset buttons is in diagonally-oriented textured rubber. I'm not sure how this will age. I have found rubberized components to react poorly to long-term environmental exposure especially when the watch is worn for diving or swimming. The caseband is particularly intricate, on both sides. A delightful combination of polymers, metals, polished, brushed, concave and convex surfaces.

The other side of the caseband (at 9 o'clock) features a stop-seconds slider for pin-point accuracy when synchronizing with other watches.

The buckle is reminiscent of a Roland Iten mechancial creation. It provides for micro-adjustment which is extremely useful when wearing the watch year-round. Instead of changing buckle position when it warms up and the arm expands, a slight buckle adjustment is all I need. The two-prong buckle in rose gold is also extremely secure.

The caseback is beautiful. Rather than mimicking the round face, the back is tonneau shaped with a curved rectangular aperture providing a close-up of the movement, the 569-piece, 70-jeweled, single-barrel, Jaeger LeCoultre Calibre 780. The 3-pronged skeletonized rotor is magnificent.

A few things you may miss just by looking casually at the watch; the strap ratchets through three positions; the top inside strap surface is textured plastic embedded into the leather; the strap has two hidden levers on either end for removing the strap and exchanging it with the other one provided in the box (and what an elegant box it is); and the power reserve indicator is visible between the 00 to 60 marking in the upper half of the dial.The white strip you see between the numbers 00-10, 10-20, 20-30, 30-40, 40-50 and 50-60 represents the power reserve charge of up to 60-hours.

The chronograph utilizes a patented jumping minute located at 12. The chronograph displays a full 24 hours, 59 minutes and 59 seconds of elapsed time.

So overall, what is my conclusion? It is a stunning tour-de-force. A remarkable watch from one of my favorite watch brands. But... Yes, there is a but. Although I am enamored with the construction, particular design flourishes, and movement construction and finish, I just can't seem to get used to the dial. It's easy to read. It's not that. It just that the overall look of the dial bothers me. It's too busy. Too much silver and gold, and black and luminous material and logos on top of the skeletonized finishing. I understand that Jaeger wants to show off its technical finesse, but in so doing, I think they have made the dial too overwrought.

NEW WATCH - CORUM - Admiral's Cup Seafender 48 DEEP DIVE

2011-07-18T17:03:00.001-04:00

100 ATMOSPHERES. That's the water resistance of this watch. I'm constantly amazed at the increasing water resistance ratings of modern diving watches. While 1,000 meters doesn't necessarily mean you're taking it down that far, it is strange that there is such a demand for these kinds of watches. The majority of watch collectors I have met don't even dive with these watches, let alone take them down below 50 meters or so.

But if you're ever invited to walk the ocean floor, this watch should hold you in good stead. I am a big fan of the Admiral's cup. Perhaps Corum will hear me and stop making every new Admiral's cup version a limited edition. A limited edition, in my opinion should be spared for the more unique pieces. This critique is not solely leveled at Corum. There are other brands who are "guilty" of limited-edition-itis.

Notwithstanding the aforementioned commentary I do like the look of this new edition. Orange is a terrific highlight to a diving watch and it looks great with the Titanium case.

Limited to 200 pieces
42-hour power reserve
48mm case in Titanium
Reference: 947.950.04/0371 AN15

NEW COLLECTION - AUDEMARS PIGUET - ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH

2011-07-07T15:52:00.003-04:00

Three new timepieces are joining the prestigious lineage of Royal Oak Offshore chronographs.

Historically, the Royal Oak Offshore is the largest of the large. Disproportionate? Gigantic? When it was first introduced in 1992, some even went so far as to claim it was an insult to good taste. It proved to be a pioneer! Its design echoed the vigorous shape of the Royal Oak, the famous octagon that in 1972 had shaken up the peaceful scene of classic round watches. But 20 years later, the Royal Oak Offshore was even sturdier and more masculine. It set the trend for large-sized watches that has continued ever since. Today, the Royal Oak Offshore collection is reaffirming its supremacy, since the case of the new threesome measures a full 44 millimeters.

In each of the three versions, the case is composed of two materials. Ceramic is associated with steel for the first, with forged carbon in the second, and with pink gold for the third. Forged carbon is a material borrowed from the field of aeronautics and which the Manufacture Audemars Piguet was the first to introduce into the world of fine watchmaking. The choice of ceramic for the bezel – the part most exposed to shocks and thus to scratches – is due to its extreme resistance and hardness. The level of finishing applied to this material deserves a mention, because although this material is currently much in favor in the watch industry, rarely is it finished with such meticulous care. Diamond-coated grinding wheels remove hundredths of a millimeter layers of material in order to achieve the same fine details one can achieve, but the process requires a large number of operations that are far more delicate and time-consuming. The contrasting materials serve to underscore the stature of the 44 millimeter case middles. With their surface featuring a vertical satin-brushed finish and their polished chamfers, the ceramic bezels accentuate the strong character of the octagonal shape, which is punctuated by its eight polished steel hexagonal screws in keeping with the signature codes of the collection. It is instantly recognizable, repeatedly imitated, but as yet unequaled!

The right-hand side of the watch has been the object of particular care. The push-piece guards are not part of the case, but are instead composed of two separate parts secured to the case by four visible screws. The push-pieces are composed of two parts: a base and a top that serves as a contact surface. The construction is thus highly complex and calls for a large number of operations, especially since the parts feature a wide variety of finishes. The pushpiece-guards are bead-blasted and satin-brushed, while the push-pieces are bead-blasted and feature a satin-brushed and polished top. These models thus involve far more than just a change of size. The entire aesthetic of the case has been reworked. The clear-cut edges define a chronograph with taut, sculptured lines radiating self-assurance, efficiency and extreme technical sophistication.

The dials adopt an extremely understated style. Nothing is purely decorative, and everything has been designed to enhance their readability. They feature faceted hands in white or pink gold and are coated with a luminescent substance. The contrasting colors mainly aim to facilitate legibility: a silver-toned dial and bezel with black counters and anthracite hour-markers for the steel version; and a black dial and flange with silver-toned counters and pink gold hour-markers for the pink gold version. On the forged carbon model dominated by black tones, the hour-markers are highlighted in the luminescent green color typical of measuring instruments. The chronograph indications are distinguished by the red accents of the chronograph counter hands and the central sweep seconds hand. Each of the dials carries the collection’s trademark “Méga Tapisserie” motif, while the grooved black rubber strap also complies with the original identity codes.

Turning over the watch enables one to gaze through its transparent back to admire its beating heart. Developed on the basis of Audemars Piguet Calibre 3120, the 3126/3840 movement is distinguished by its extreme reliability. Its cross-through balance-bridge ensures improved shock-resistance, while its rating remains stable thanks to a variable inertia balance fitted with eight inertia-blocks. Moreover, Calibre 3126/3840 provides excellent user-friendliness, particularly due to the instant-jump and fast-adjusted date mechanism, along with a 60-hour power reserve and a stop seconds device when setting the time.

One also notes the refined cutting out and meticulous craftsmanship lavished on this calibre may be admired through the sapphire crystal case-back. Hand-assembled and decorated in the Le Brassus workshops, this movement boasts an exceptional level of execution and finishing. Arranged in an elegantly harmonious manner, the bridges are carefully beveled and polished so as to reveal only clean-cut edges. The jewel sinks are diamond-polished, and the wheels feature beveled spokes and diamond-polished countersinks. Even the rim and lots of the screws are beveled. The mainplate is circular grained on both sides and the bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève.

The newly developed oscillating weight is crafted all of a piece from a block of 22-carat gold and is coated with an anthracite galvanic treatment in harmony with the sporting and technical spirit of the collection. The AP emblem is surrounded by two bevel-finished.

Technical Details

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph References

26400SO.OO.A002CA.01
Case, pushpiece-guards, fastening studs and pin buckle in stainless steel; bezel, crown and push-pieces in black ceramics.
MSRP: $28,100

26400AU.OO.A002CA.01
Case in forged carbon; bezel, crown and push-pieces in black ceramics; pushpiece guards, fastening studs and pin buckle in titanium
MSRP: $31,100

26400RO.OO.A002CA.01
Case, pushpiece-guards fastening studs and pin buckle in 18-carat pink gold; bezel, crown and push-pieces in black ceramics.
MSRP: $52,100

Movement
Self-winding Calibre 3126/3840 Total diameter: 29.92 mm (131/4 lignes) Casing diameter: 26 mm Thickness: 7.16 mm 59 jewels 365 parts Up to 60-hour power reserve Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) Variable-inertia balance with eight inertia-blocks and flat balance-spring Geneva-type mobile balance-spring stud-holder Three-position winding stem Finishing: all parts finely decorated; mainplate circular-grained; bridges rhodiumed, beveled, snailed and adorned with Côtes de Genève. Diamond-polished jewel sinks; diamond-polished countersinks and beveled wheel spokes; beveled screw rims Partially open-worked 22-carat gold oscillating weight with anthracite galvanic treatment

Cases
Diameter: 44 mm Thickness: 14.43 mm Exhibition back with sapphire crystal pane and Royal Oak Offshore engraving

Dials
Exclusive “Méga Tapisserie” engraving
Applied faceted white or pink gold hour-markers with luminescent coating.

Straps
Black rubber, adorned with two grooves

Functions
Hours and minutes Small seconds at 12 o’clock Chronograph with central sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and 12hour counter at 6 o’clock. Tachometric scale on the flange Date

NEW WATCH - ORIS - Maldives Limited Edition

2011-06-27T17:46:00.000-04:00

Following the success of the Oris Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition in 2010, Oris presents the Maldives Limited Edition Series for 2011. Limited to 2000 pieces, 20 Swiss Francs per watch will be donated to environmental NGO Bluepeace, to help protect endangered marine life in the Maldives.

Available in a titanium case, the back of this unique divers watch features the Manta Ray Logo, paying homage to the endangered species.

The dark blue ceramic inlay on the unidirectional revolving top ring comes with an engraved 60 minute scale which can be used for precision timing for diving and other sporting activities. The indices and hands of the time piece are in Superluminova dark orange – resulting in an easy to read timepiece even when under water.

The titanium crown protector is fixed with distinctive Oris screws for added security and the double curved sapphire crystal is coated with an inside anti-reflex layer. The buckles of the rubber strap and metal bracelet can easily be adjusted to the desired length for comfortable fitting.

Product Features

Oris Maldives Limited Edition
No. 643 7654 7185 RS or MB, Ø 43.00mm
Limited to 2000 pieces

• Automatic mechanical movement Oris 643 with center hands for both hours and minutes, subsidiary second at 9h, date window
• Multi-piece Titanium case with unidirectional revolving top ring and ceramic inlay with engraved 60 minutes scale
• Inside and outside doomed sapphire crystal with non reflective coating on the inside
• Automatic helium valve at 9 o’clock position and stainless steel screw-in crown at 3 o’clock position
• Case back with special Manta Ray logo
• Water resistant to 30 bar / 300 meters
• Blue dial with applied indices filled with Superluminova in dark orange color
• Easy adjustable black rubber strap with folding clasp
or
• Multi-piece titanium metal bracelet with folding clasp

Set
Multipurpose soft pouch and Limited edition certificate

NEW WATCH - HUBLOT - KING POWER RED DEVIL

2011-06-23T13:58:00.000-04:00

Hublot continues it's partnership with the storied football club Manchester United. This is the third watch resulting from the partnership.

The watch is a little more skeletonized than the run-of-the-mill King Power timepieces. The green of the index markers is based on the actual grass from ManU's hallowed home turf Old Trafford. Seriously! The freeze-dried blades of grass were inserted into the indexes and then lacquered.

Available in two flavors:

Microblasted ceramic 716.CI.1129.RX.MAN11 (500 pieces)
King Gold 716.OM.1129.RX.MAN11 (250 pieces)

NEW WATCH - BVLGARI - Endurer Chronosprint All Blacks

2011-06-23T10:53:00.000-04:00

The new Bulgari Endurer Chronosprint All Blacks, Daniel Roth Collection celebrates the partnership between Bulgari and the world’s most famous rugby team, the New Zealand All Blacks.

In addition to the classic hour and minute functions displayed along a slightly off-centered axis, the mechanical self-winding movement – Calibre DR1306 – also drives a specific chronograph function.

The latter serves to measure relatively long times expressed in hours and minutes by means of two hands of different lengths mounted on a single axis. They run across a double railtrack scale bearing 12-hour and 60-minute graduations. Contrary to standard chronographs, this function cannot be stopped but is simply reset by pressing the ergonomically ridged pushbutton at 7.30. This automatically brings the two hands back to zero for a new measurement that begins instantly. This sophisticated movement also powers a large date display appearing through a window at 12 o’clock.

This patented mechanism features a dedicated construction based on the off-centered hour and minute functions enabling optimal positioning of the Chronosprint function counter. Finely decorated in harmony with the noblest Swiss craftsmanship traditions – including circular-grained surfaces, Côtes de Genève motifs and engravings – this Haute Horlogerie model beats at a cadence of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and has a 45-hour power reserve.

The aesthetic of this All Blacks special edition gives pride of place to the benchmark values of the New Zealand team: the shaped case with its sturdy yet smoothly integrated lines is shaped in Staybrite® steel – a treatment that makes it extremely corrosion-proof. It also features a DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) treatment ensuring absolute resistance. Its elliptical shape characteristic of the Daniel Roth Collection asserts its sporting vocation while maintaining the inherent refinement of all exclusive Haute Horlogerie creations.

Topped by a concave screw-locked bezel, the case frames a dial graced with a symbolic motif reflecting a Maori tattoo, the Koru. A symbol of life, growth, strength, peace and renaissance, it expresses the perpetual renewal of the All Blacks legend and the founding values that continue to guide the team. Maori warriors wear this decoration as an affirmation of virility, rebirth and life. The hour-markers on the shiny anthracite dial are enhanced with black Superluminova® enabling easy read-off of the information even in the dark.

The original All Blacks® logo dating back to 1905 is applied on the case-back made of semi-transparent tinted sapphire crystal revealing fascinating glimpses of the movement crafted in the Bulgari Haute Horlogerie workshops in Le Sentier, in the Vallée de Joux. The model is firmly secured to the wrist by a rubber strap with a pin buckle and steel inserts DLC-treated ensuring an excellent hold and a supple feel. This special edition is delivered in a leather presentation box shaped like a life-sized rugby ball and stamped with the All Blacks logo.

The Endurer Chronosprint All Blacks special edition immortalizes the quest for performance and commitment cherished by the world’s most famous rugby team, while reflecting the elegance and innovation cultivated by Bulgari over the past 127 years.

Technical Specifications

Description:
DR1306, mechanical with unidirectional automatic winding by an oscillating weight; 34 jewels

Display:
Hours & minutes; patented large window-type date display: Chronosprint hours & minute function with push-button resetting

Power reserve:
45 hours

Frequency:
4Hz – 28,800 vph

Case:
DLC-treated (Diamond Like Carbon) steel and polished edges, 56.51 mm in diameter and 14.10 mm thick, sapphire crystal; screw-in back with semi-transparent tinted sapphire crystal and applied All Blacks logo; ergonomically ridged PVD-treated Chronosprint push-button and crown; water-resistant to 100 meters

Dial:
Engraved with a Maori motif, black Superluminova® treatment of hour-markers ensuring optimal readability

Mainplate and bridges:
Circular-grained mainplate; bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève, beveled and polished steel parts.

ONLY WATCH 2011 - TAG HEUER - MONACO Mikrograph 1/100th Of a Second Chronograph

2011-06-23T10:45:00.001-04:00

TAG Heuer’s two most daring inventions in terms of movement and design will be auctioned on September 22, 2011 to benefit Duchenne muscular dystrophy research under the high patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco.

Watch collectors around the world will be captivated by this technical revolution of the Mikrograph movement, a masterpiece of Haute Horlogerie encased in the iconic square shape of the Monaco. The Monaco design remains, over four decades after its scene-stealing debut on the wrist of Steve McQueen in the movie Le Mans, as cool and cutting-edge as ever.

Unlike a conventional chronograph, the time base is not dependent on the watch (hence the name “stopwatch”). Chronograph functions can be started or stopped independently of watch functions.

The watch is automatically wound by means of a circular oscillating weight, and features a 42-hour power reserve.

As for the stopwatch, the balance wheel oscillates at 50 hertz, 360,000 vibrations per hour, with a 90-minute power reserve, and displays the 1/100th of a second with the central chronograph hand. Entirely designed, patented, developed and manufactured by TAG Heuer in La Chaux-de-Fonds, this innovation re-writes history in the field of high frequency movements.

The flying central hand indicates the 100th of a second. The design is unexpected: the hand's round, open tip allows precise reading of the graduations, which are printed on a sapphire disc. The "/100" engraving is laser-cut by hand. The counter at 3 o'clock indicates chronograph minutes on a rotating disc with 3 hands, graduated 0 / 10 / 20. The counter at 9 o'clock features a small second, also on a rotating disc with 3 hands, graduated 0 / 20 / 40 to facilitate reading. The third sub-counter at 6 o’clock indicates chronograph seconds. Fire-red touches on the hands are reminiscent of the original Monaco’s motor racing style. The power reserve is indicated at 12 o'clock.

The dial is a highly sophisticated multi-level design, alternating black lacquer and silver opaline finishes. Oversized screws on the dial evoke the engine of a sports car.

A refined touch of black lacquer has been added to the oversized crown and chronograph push-buttons. The black strap is in "Barenia", the highest quality of calfskin leather, and the red color in the perforations echoes the fire-red hands of the dial.

For a very special watch, a very special watch box.

Internationally acclaimed South African artist Paul du Toit has personally committed to create a unique piece of art to host the Monaco Mikrograph. The watch box art will be conceptualized and painted by this celebrated artist.

Paul du Toit has gained stature in Europe following the award of a medal from the city of Florence in the Biennale Internationale Dell'arte Contemporanea. Renowned for using an impasto technique (thick industrial paste into which he scratched lines and images), it is now intrinsic to his style of automatic scribbling.

As a firmly entrenched artist, Paul du Toit is able to dedicate attention to community project involvement. Philanthropy resonates deeply with him. Paul was involved directly with Nelson Mandela in fundraising efforts for his 46664 campaign for 3 successive years. Ink handprints on canvas of Mr Mandela's boxing hand were auctioned in Johannesburg and in London. In 2009, a mould of Mr Mandela's boxing hand, which was cast in a one-off unique bronze, was auctioned in London for $3.5m. In 2010, an imprint of both Mr. Mandela's hands were made into a relief sculpture and auctioned in NYC. All the auctions were to benefit Mr. Mandela's 46664 campaign.

Paul du Toit’s superb watch box for the TAG Heuer Monaco Mikrograph is sure to add to the unique timepiece’s sale price at Only Watch auction.

The one-off Monaco Mikrograph and its special display box will tour the world from August 30th to September 17th, with exhibitions in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Tokyo, Los Angeles, New York, Milan and Geneva. It will then be auctioned at the Only Watch event in Monaco on September 22, 2011. Proceeds of its sale will benefit Duchenne muscular dystrophy research.

Movement:
• TAG Heuer Mikrograph 1/100 sec. – Manufacture movement – Automatic Chronograph (360,000 beats per hour) – COSC certified watch movement – Power Reserve – Date

Dial:
• Anthracite and silver (Opalin Rhodium) dial: Minutes and hours in the center counter, small second counter at 9 o’clock , chronograph minutes counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph second counter at 6 o’clock
• Chronograph power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
• Black titanium carbide coated hour and minute hands with luminescent markers
• Polished steel central 1/100th of a second chronograph hand with “1/100th“ laser cutting
• Red chronograph minute and second hands
• White small second hands
• White power reserve hand at 12 o’clock.
• Hand applied monochrome TAG Heuer logo
• Minuterie printed on smoked sapphire crystal circle

Case:
• Case size : 43mm
• Fine brushed and polished stainless steel case
• Double antireflective curved sapphire crystal
• Steel and black lacquer crown and push buttons
• Applied TAG Heuer logo on case side at 9’o clock
• Sapphire case back to allow direct view on the movement and “Only Watch 2011” engraving on the oscillating weight
• Water-resistance: 100 meters

Bracelet:
• Black perforated Barenia calfskin leather strap with red-colored perforations
• Folding buckle with safety push-buttons

NEW WATCH - HUBLOT - OCEANOGRAPHIC 4000

2011-06-14T17:17:00.000-04:00

I was thinking of diving the Mariana Trench this weekend. Since it's 10,916 meters deep (35,814 feet), I need a watch that can function at that depth and not let me down. Seriously? No. But should I think of diving the trench, I could get down 40-50% of the way with Hublot's new Oceanographic 4000 (Water resistant to 4,000 meters or 13,120 feet).

Available in two flavors, titanium (731.NX.1190.RX for $19,900) and black carbon fiber (731.QX.1140.RX for $25,900), this diving watch means business. The former is limited to 1,000 pieces, the latter to 500. And if you just have to go down to 5,000 meters, rest assured, it should maintain its water-tightness at that level according to NIHS standards.

One of the features that allow this timepiece to maintain its water resistance at such insane depths is a 6.5mm front crystal and a screw-down caseback engineered from grade 2 titanium.

The crown at 2 sets the dive time via the flange. The crown at 4 is for the usual functions of setting time and date.

Two straps accompany this behemoth - at 48mm it's pretty large. One of black rubber for black-tie functions, the other a lengthier rubber and nylon compositon that can be worn over a dive suit.

NEW WATCH - JAEGER-LECOULTRE - DUOMETRE A QUANTIEME LUNAIRE

2011-05-31T17:37:00.002-04:00

The Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire embodies the latest in horological achievements of Jaeger-LeCoultre: it displays time with a jumping seconds hand showing 1/6th of a second increments and additionally providing the date and the age of the moon in a separate sub dial. The true genius of this watch however lies within the Dual-Wing movement concept, which features two independent power supplies: one entirely dedicated to creating a perfect timing foundation – regulated by escapement and balance –, the other solely for the display of time – hour, minute and seconds hands – as well as date and the age of the moon for the Northern as well as the Southern hemisphere. Both are synchronized through the jumping seconds hand mechanism driven by the escapement.

Movement:
• mechanical manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381, crafted, assembled and decorated
by hand
• 21,600 vibrations per hour
• 50-hour power reserve
• 369 parts
• 40 jewels
• 7.25 mm high
• 33.7 mm diameter
• two independent barrels

Functions:
• hours, minutes, seconds, jumping-second, date, moon-phase (North and South), age of the moon, power reserve
• movement power reserve

Dial:
• black, matt with appliqués numerals
Hands:
• hour and minute: leaf-type, brass, gold-plated
• seconds: baton with pear-shaped counterweight, gold-plated

Crown:
• 1 crown to start the watch, to wind the watch functions power reserve, to wind the movement power reserve and to adjust the hours and minutes
• 1 push piece to set the date
• 1 corrector to set the moon phase

Case:
• diameter 42 mm, thickness: 13.5 mm
• 18-carat white gold
• welded lugs
• polished and satin-brushed finishing
• cambered sapphire crystals, hardness N° 9, glareproofed on front and back
• water resistance: 5 atm

Straps:
• matt black alligator leather with folding clasp in 18-carat white gold

Reference:
• Q6043570, limited series of 200

She's a beauty. This is perhaps my favorite innovation:
The watch features two seconds hands. One at the center and a second one at 6 o’clock: a jumping seconds hand accurate to 1/6th of a second. Setting the time is easily performed by pulling the crown: Then both seconds hands, the center seconds hand and the jumping seconds hand jump to the zero-position leaving the escapement running. Pushing the crown activates both hands simultaneously by re-coupling into the running escapement. Once released, the wheels of the hands simply interlock with the active mechanism and begin to turn on the spot at the speed of the clock, which is 3 Hertz. This accuracy is reached instantaneously because the balance has been breathing even with the hands on hold. Whereas with the traditional second’s stop, which freezes the balance wheel, the watch needs several minutes before it is back in its original rhythm – minutes, in which the balance wheel has to pick up speed again and which add up to a time deviation of many seconds. Thus precise adjustment with a timing signal for normal watches remains an illusion. The mechanism behind the two hands is based on two escape wheels fixed to the same axis: one works with the lever while the other is driving the seconde foudroyante through the jumping seconds star. Upon pulling the crown, a lever is stopping the jumping second when it reaches the zero-position. At the same time a “return to zero” hammer pushes the central second’s hand to the 12 o’clock position through the use of a seconds heart cam. No other watch allows for such an accurate setting of the time, and this technical feature is perfectly in line with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s quest for even more accuracy in timekeeping.

NEW WATCH - BREITLING - NAVITIMER SUPER CONSTELLATION LIMITED EDITION

2011-05-25T13:21:00.001-04:00

In parallel with Breitling's restoration of service to the famous Breitling Super Constellation aircraft, the brand has released the eponymous Navitimer Super Constellation.

Movement: Breitling Caliber 23, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, selfwinding, high-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 25 jewels. 1/4th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Calendar. Case: Steel, limited series of 1,049. Resistance to 3 bars. Rotating bezel with circular slide rule. Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Diameter: 42 mm. Dial: Black. Strap/Bracelet: Barenia leather, crocodile leather/Navitimer, Air Racer.

Nice looking piece!

FROM THE OMG DEPARTMENT

2011-05-23T16:20:00.000-04:00

Many readers may be familiar with Vacheron Constantin's Atelier Cabinotiers service, a service created in 2006 that custom-makes fine watches to customer's unique specifications.

Vacheron has shared two of these unique pieces with the horological world;

• Philosophia: the paradoxical timekeeper.
• Vladimir: the ultimate in complications.

Philosophia*: the other way to tell the time

The original idea was based on the postulate that mankind does not need to constantly know the exact time to the nearest minute. In some parts of the world, making an appointment “in the morning” or “in the evening” is quite sufficient to allow two people to meet. In the same spirit, knowing that it is 12 or 17 minutes past ten o’clock does not make the Philosophia*’s owner any happier or unhappier. However, while this man has decided on a lifestyle of displaying approximate time, he is no less a connoisseur of excellence. Far from being indifferent, he is in fact a Fine Watchmaking enthusiast and a major collector of timepieces.

The Philosophia* conveys all of these things at once. Based on a model from the Patrimony collection, it has only one hand in the centre, the hour hand, with a 24-hour display, allowing the approximate hour to be read without worrying about the minutes. But if the owner wants a more exact idea of the time at any given moment, he simply engages the on-off slide of the Philosophia*’s minute repeater, which reveals the exact hour, quarter hour and minute. If the hand is a little before 6 o’clock, the chime will sound five times on a low note, three times on a low-to-high note pair, and, for example, twelve times on a high note. That means it is exactly 5:57.

Another sophisticated touch in the Philosophia* is an opening in the dial at 6 o’clock that reveals a tourbillon rotating once every 60 seconds. The commissioner of the piece, who also likes astronomy, asked for a customised precision moon phase; the moon is shown with its craters, and a single star – the pole star—shines near it. On the back of the watch, the power reserve indicator bears a small plaque stamped with the intertwined constellations Ursa Major and Ursa Minor. Nearby, engraved in the 18-carat pink gold of the custom case, the identifying phrase “Les Cabinotiers” and the Atelier Cabinotiers coat of arms attest to the exceptional origin of this timepiece, which is also stamped with the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

Highly customised, the entire Philosophia* - a one-of-a-kind model – was made piece by piece at Vacheron Constantin by Atelier Cabinotiers. At its owner’s request, it was engraved with “No Un/Un” [No. One/One] instead of the usual “1/1” marked on one-of-a-kind pieces. This attention to detail was the rule for all 522 components of the hand-wound mechanical movement that makes the Philosophia* tick. The movement that drives a minute repeater, a 60-second tourbillon and the moon-phase display. Careful attention was paid to the finishes of all components; even the surfaces that will never be seen are hand decorated. This is true, for example, of the plate and its hand matt-effect file-stroke treatment, which gives it a very beautiful granulated sandy effect but which no one –except the watchmaker who takes the watch apart for maintenance – will ever see. Another special detail is the openwork at the centre of the escapement wheel, which provides a place for a pierced Maltese Cross motif, the symbol of Vacheron Constantin.

Unique in its spirit, aesthetics and exclusive mechanism, the Philosophia model was recently delivered to its owner by Vacheron Constantin’s Atelier Cabinotiers. It goes without saying that the presentation box as well as all the accessories and related documents – including the instructions – were also custom-made, one of each.

* Philosophia is the name given by the owner

TECHNICAL DATA
Atelier Cabinotiers Philosophia

Reference: 80173/000R9483

Calibre: 2755
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva

Energy: Mechanical, manual-winding
Movement diameter: 33.30 mm
Movement thickness: 7.65 mm
Jewels: 40
Frequency: 18’000 vibrations / hour (2.5 Hz)

Indications: Hours 24 H, second on tourbillon
Minute Repeater
Tourbillon
Power reserve on the back of the watch

Power reserve: Approx. 58 hours
Bespoke power reserve dial engraved with “great and lesser Bear”

Case: 18K 5N pink gold
43 mm in diameter
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side

Water-Resistance: None

Dial: Silvered opaline
Moon-phases disc in 18K 5N pink gold
Black painted minute-track and 11 Arabic numerals

Strap: Brown Mississipiensis alligator leather, square scales,
hand-stitched, saddle finish

Clasp: Buckle in 18K 5N pink gold
Polished half Maltese Cross

Unique piece
Case-back engraved with “Les Cabinotiers” identification and “AC” Hallmark

Vladimir*: the ultimate in complications and artistic crafts

The second special order was named Vladimir* by its owner. This Slavic first name is derived from the ancient term Volodimir, which literally means “domination by peace” or “peace to all.” This superlative watch is none other than one of the world’s most complicated timepieces. That is what its owner wanted, and Vacheron Constantin’s Atelier Cabinotiers gathered the resources to meet this very ambitious goal. As it began this extraordinary adventure and accepted this uncommon mechanical challenge, Vacheron Constantin knew it could count on its unusual expertise garnered over an uninterrupted span of more than 250 years in business. The Genevese Manufacture had demonstrated this during its quarter-millennial celebration in 2005 by designing and producing in its own workshops what was at the time the world’s most complicated wristwatch, the famous Tour de l’Ile. The Vladimir* model that has just left Ateliers Cabinotiers is even more complicated than that legendary model of 2005. The hand-wound mechanical movement of this unique Vladimir* watch drives no less than 17 complications. This exceptional movement, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, has some 891 components, all hand-finished or hand-decorated at Vacheron Constantin. It is both a technical and aesthetic triumph that took Atelier Cabinotiers and its top-flight watchmakers four years to develop.

Just one look at the Vladimir*’s main dial, which was hand-engraved on a rose engine at Atelier Cabinotiers, gives an indication of the complexity of this horological masterpiece and reveals an impressive array of complications, in addition to the usual display of hours and minutes. To begin with the supreme example, the very refined 60-second tourbillon mechanism stands out at 6 o’clock, while next to it at 3 o’clock appears the moon phase on a blue sky with a precision moon in gold, smiling or serious depending on the phase and hand-engraved by Atelier Cabinotiers craftsmen. To its right, a smaller counter with a small blued hand indicates the striking mechanism torque, i.e., whether the minute repeater mechanism is engaged. In addition to the hour and minute hands – one-of-a-kind pieces made especially for this watch –that travel around the slightly off-centre minute markers, the front side of the main dial provides a second time zone with day/night indicator at 11 o’clock. The power reserve indicator is located in the 9 o’clock sector, also enhanced by a 52-week indicator. At this point, we have already seen seven easily identifiable complications on a well-balanced dial – with all of the motifs and materials having been selected by the purchaser – that are perfectly legible and aesthetically flawless. As another sign of the personalisation evident throughout the entire creative process, the guilloché pattern on the dial was also chosen by the collector of this exceptional timepiece.

The back is no less admirable than the front, having a wealth of information that is pleasantly arranged, exciting, subtle and surprising. On the upper portion, the perpetual calendar dials are arranged in a triangle, displaying the days of the week, month and date from left to right. A small window at 1 o’clock shows the leap-year cycle. In the centre of the dial, a blued hand sweeps over a small sector devoted to the equation of time, the variable difference observable between true (solar) time and the time marked by clocks, which for convenience is divided into equal intervals. Two other pieces of astronomical information are conveyed by hands traversing two sectors at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock: the time of sunrise and sunset. The list of functions ends in a blaze of glory with a precision sky chart of the northern hemisphere, as one rarely sees it.

This exceptional mechanical watch bearing the Hallmark of Geneva has a setting to match. The Vladimir*’s case is itself a work of art, epitomising the legendary expertise and nimble fingers of Atelier Cabinotiers’ artistic craftsmen. On the sides of this unique and imposing piece, which is 47 mm in diameter, the signs of the Chinese zodiac appear in bas-relief. The motifs and the bas-relief technique (which is extremely rare in watchmaking) used here were both done by request of the owner. Before getting to the heart of the matter with regard to the subject and materials, the designers showed the purchaser many sketches. The decision was then made to depict the signs of the zodiac on both sides of the case, which itself is made of 18-carat pink gold. In the end, the twelve figures – from the dragon through the rabbit and the rooster to the snake – were made to stand out slightly from the main body of 18-carat pink gold. It was a colossal task for the engravers – the twelve figures alone took more than six months – and required that a very special case first had to be made with extra-thick sides, from which the superfluous material was removed, carving roughly at first and then in very fine detail. As with every other timepiece from Vacheron Constantin’s workshop, the case was then polished very subtly, a task made all the more difficult by the fact that it absolutely must not destroy the engraver’s incredible work on the bas-reliefs. In order to meet the challenge and create this extremely complex and unique timepiece, Atelier Cabinotiers called on more than 20 experts and craftsmen. It was a Herculean effort for a watch that deserves to join the legendary ranks of exceptional watchmaking.

* Vladimir is the name given by the owner

TECHNICAL DATA
Atelier Cabinotiers Vladimir

Reference: 80253/000R-9593

Calibre: 2750
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
Energy: Mechanical, manual-winding
Movement diameter: 36.00 mm
Movement thickness: 11.25 mm
Jewels: 38
Frequency: 18’000 Vibrations / hour (2.5 Hz)

Indications: Hours, minutes, second on tourbillon
Minute repeater
Perpetual Calendar
Power reserve
Second time zone
Moon phase indication, age of the moon
Striking-mechanism torque
Perpetual time equation
Sunrise, sunset
Celestial map
Week number indication

Power reserve: Approx. 58 hours

Case: 18K 5N pink gold
47.00 mm in diameter
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side
Manual engraving of the 12 Chinese zodiac signs on the side of the case

Water-Resistance: None

Dial: 18K white gold
Hand-guilloched
Minute-track painted in white
8 applied hour markers in 18K pink gold

Strap: Brown Mississipiensis alligator leather, square scales, hand-stitched, saddle finish

Clasp: Buckle in 18K 5N pink gold
Polished half Maltese Cross

Unique piece
Case-back engraved with “Les Cabinotiers” identification and “AC” Hallmark

NEW WATCH - CHOPARD - Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono 2011

2011-05-05T11:15:00.000-04:00

168459-3037 – Limited edition of 2011 pieces in steel

161268-5010 – Limited edition of 250 pieces in rose gold

44mm case diameter
14.36mm thickness
100m water resistance
46-hour power reserve

Some newly decorated Chronograph pushers appear on this new version for 2011 together with a black engine-turned dial (the 2010 version has a similar dial in silver).

I much prefer this version to the 2010 version and think it will prove to be a huge success.

NEW WATCH - Jaeger-LeCoultre - Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Italico

2011-05-03T16:38:00.000-04:00

Happy 80th anniversary Mr. Reverso watch. And happy 150th anniversary to unified Italy.

Jaeger-leCoultre pays tribute to these important anniversaries with an exclusive limited edition for the Italian market.

Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Italico in steel, limited edition of 150 pieces.
Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Italico in pink gold, limited edition of 50 pieces.

The distinctive feature of this special edition is its dial.

At 8 o'clock, the numeral is replaced with the letter R (and the word REVERSO forming the stem of the letter itself) in red. The letter R was in fact used in the Roman alphabet to indicate (in rare usage) the number octoginta, 80. The dial is also rendered unique thanks to elements in red, small details that recall the exclusive limited editions created for the Italian market (Master Ultra Thin Italico and Reverso 976 Italico).

After 80 years spent in celebration of classicism, the new Grande Reverso Ultra Thin wishes to be revolutionary, aiming for extreme simplicity. The extremely fine thickness of the Calibre Jaeger-LeCoultre 822 (just 2.94 millimetres) has allowed the thinnest ever Reverso to be created. The case is larger and truly stands out on the wrist, but the extreme thinness of the timepiece and its delicately moulded form mean that it is light and comfortable to wear.

The clean dial features vertical guilloché decoration, highly sober Arabic numerals, and fine blued hands: all the aesthetic codes of the Reverso are showcased here in this new ultra-thin version. This model expresses the very essence of the Reverso's personality, combining tradition with nobility, style and elegance.

Hublot supports the Manchester United Legends Tour in Asia

2011-04-14T11:45:00.002-04:00

Visiting Bangkok on the 6th April 2011, Kuala Lumpur on the 8th April and Hong Kong on the 9th April, a memorable tour by the Manchester United legends has just taken place in Asia, supported by Hublot.

At each stop, the Manchester United legends attended a charity dinner in support of the Asia-wide “UNICEF Legends Charity Dinner”, organised by UNICEF and the Manchester United Foundation. All the funds raised have been channelled into UNICEF projects protecting at-risk young populations, including children, from the threat of HIV and AIDS.

To mark this occasion, Hublot designed and created three unique watches with the exclusive Red Devil emblem on the dial and an engraving on the back detailing each date and location (Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur & Hong Kong). These three watches were each put up for auction during the 3 dinners to raise funds for UNICEF and the Manchester United Foundation.

NEW WATCH - EDOX - X-TREME PILOT III, The New Bad Boy

2011-04-14T11:33:00.000-04:00

The over-sized push-piece captures the attention, its electric green evoking the lights indicating the start of a race. Designed for WRC drivers, the watch is in ultra-light titanium and the movement rotated through 180 degrees, makes for instinctive and enjoyable use.

As ever, the WRC collection features many inspired details: wheel rims embossed on the caseback, green oversize push-piece in anodised aluminium and a tachymeter scale on the dial.

The new X-treme Pilot III Limited Edition is a real tool for drivers. It is limited to 1000 exclusive pieces and comes in its personalised presentation box. Edox is the official timing partner of the World Rally Championships.

Technical specifications
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date display, chronograph functions
Calibre: Edox 103, based on Ronda 5021.D
Diameter: 45 mm
Finishings: 316L stainless steel, black PVD coating on selected pieces, limited numbering of the watch engraved on a plate affixed to the case flank
Water resistance: 100 meters / 10 ATM / 330 feet
Dial: black carbon, green and white markings and indices
Glass: scratch-resistant sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Strap: genuine black rubber (with WRC prints) with stainless steel clasp, embossed Edox logo

X-treme Pilot III Limited Edition - Available worldwide June 2011

Suggested retail prices : CHF 2350.- / EUR 1890.-

NEW WATCH - ORIS - CARLOS COSTE LE CENOTE SERIES

2011-04-12T16:44:00.001-04:00

Fans of the Oris limited Edition Carlos Coste series will be jumping for joy right about now, because there is a new 46mm timepiece available for 2011.

Product Features

Oris Carlos Coste Limited Edition – Cenote Series
No. 674 7655 7184-Set Ø 46.00mm
Limited to 2000 pieces

• Automatic mechanical chronograph movement ETA 7750 with red rotor
• Hour, minute and stop second from the centre, subsidiary dials at 6, 9 and 12 h position.
• Titanium case with ceramic top ring and Superluminova inlay and screwed case back with Carlos Coste’s logo
• Pushers and screw down crown in stainless steel
• Automatic helium valve at 9 o’clock position
• Water resistant to 50 bar / 500 metres
• Black dial with applied indices filled with Superluminova
• Titanium metal bracelet with easy adjustable folding clasp

Set
• Multipurpose soft pouch, replacement rubber strap, tools for the bracelet change. Limited edition certificate

The new Carlos Coste Limited Edition Cenote Series boasts a number of original features to highlight Coste’s incredible feat (in 2010, Carlos Coste established a new Guinness World Record for free-diving, by completing a 150 meter underwater swim using no apparatus).

The essential minute counter glows in the dark for ease of reading and to indicate the time spent under water; a triangle on the 2 minute position symbolizes that Carlos would be reaching his own breath record of 2:30 minutes for a dynamic dive at this point, whilst a second triangle at the seven minute position highlights Carlos’s record of 7:30 minutes for holding his breath during a static dive.

The top ring of this watch is made of scratch proof ceramic, a plus for all extreme sports aficionados who need their watches to be as resilient as they are. The numerals and triangle at the zero position are filled with SLN to provide optimum visibility in darkness like that experienced during cave dives. The case back is graced by the Carlos Coste logo and the limitation number.

NEW WATCH - GIRARD PERREGAUX - SEA HAWK PRO 1000M

2011-04-12T16:31:00.000-04:00

The GP Sea Hawk Pro has been around in a variety of iterations since 2002. It was a bold design in 2002, but the design now strikes me as a bit long in the tooth, especially circa 2011.

GP is not one to make any radical changes, but a rethink of the Sea Hawk Pro design might be in order.

On the plus side, the dial design is a pleasing matte black with subtle orange highlighting provided by the power reserve, small seconds, and minutes hand.

The 1,000 meter water resistance will make this watch popular amongst professional divers, but whereas in 2002 this watch had little company in terms of solid professional diving watches, in 2011 there is an abundance of choice for divers looking to purchase a true diver's watch.

BASELWORLD 2011 - HUBLOT - KEY OF TIME

2011-04-04T10:36:00.000-04:00

This is the second piece in the Masterpiece Collection from Hublot. The first piece in this collection, the MP-01, was presented in January 2011. It was a barrel-shaped titanium watch with a shaped chronograph movement offering a 10-day power reserve thanks to its three barrels working in series, and produced in a series of just 100 pieces.

For Baselworld 2011, Hublot have introduced the MP-02 Key of Time.

The watch has three time-measuring modulations:
Position 1: If you want to savor every second of the passing of time: you can slow down the speed of the watch hands, dividing time by 4, whereby 1 conventional hour is represented as quarter of an hour on the MP-02 Key of Time display.
Position 2: If you want “real” time: select normal hand speed, to retain “standard” time, whereby one conventional hour equates to one hour on the MP-02 Key of Time.
Position 3: If you want time to pass quicker: you can accelerate the hand speed, multiplying time by four, whereby a conventional quarter of an hour is represented as one hour on the MP-02 Key of Time Key of Time display.

Other Key Specifications:
Reference 902.ND.1190.RX
Series of 50 pieces numbered from 01/50 to 50/50
Case in microblasted titanium (Grade 5), with black DLC coating
512 components
74 jewels
21,600 vph
Seconds via vertical tourbillon cage

It's a playful concept, an interesting design departure, and an exercise in "what-if" thinking for Hublot, but its novelty would wear-off rather quickly for me, and I couldn't justify the purchase.

BASELWORLD 2011 - LOUIS ERARD - Excellence Régulateur Réserve de Marche

2011-04-04T10:23:00.000-04:00

To celebrate its 80th anniversary, Louis Erard proudly presents a new line, the Excellence, comprising seven steel models – five for men, two for women – that are also available in pink gold. The showpiece, the Power Reserve Regulator, pays tribute to the regulator, a veritable symbol of precision in the field of chronometry. This timekeeper uses its own modules and houses the watchmaker's unique, exclusive complication. A round 40-mm case, a refined white case displaying the hours shown by Roman numerals in an off-center counter at 12 o'clock, a small seconds at 6 o'clock, and a power reserve at 9 are just some of the many sophisticated details accentuating the simple, classic lines of this extremely varied collection. Louis Erard has produced a real coup here in an haute horlogerie spirit at an affordable price.

I am a huge fan of this brand. Good, clean design and affordable pricing. This watch in particular is gorgeous!

Specifications

Movement:
Hand-wound, ETA 7001 RE9 calibre with in-house Power Reserve Regulator complication

Functions:
Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve

Case:
Stainless steel, 40 mm
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Decorated back
Water-resistant to 50 m / 5 ATM

Dial:
White
Regulator with off-center hour counter at 12 o'clock, minutes at center, seconds at 6 o'clock
Power reserve at 9 o'clock

Bracelet/Strap:
Black leather with stainless steel folding clasp

Other versions:
Power Reserve, hand-wound, ETA 7001 RM 10 calibre with in-house complication; hours and minutes at center, small seconds at 6 o'clock and power reserve at 10 o'clock

Baselworld 2011 - Harry Winston - Opus 11

2011-03-25T11:23:00.000-04:00

Technical details

Name: Opus Eleven

Reference: 500/MMDGWL

Movement
Mechanical with manual winding
24 conical pinions
155 jewels
566 components

Functions
Hour display by means of an original system made up of 24 placards, with a rotation speed regulation and management system
Digital display of minutes by 2 disks, a jumping disk for the tens and a running disk for the units
Traditional fine watchmaking finishes

Case
Composed of three overlapping cylinders with a sapphire crystal in between :
Main cylinder for the hours
One pavilion for the minutes
One pavilion for balance-wheel
Material: 18-carat white gold

Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective treatment

Strap: black alligator

Buckle: triple-blade folding clasp with integrated push-buttons

Power reserve: 48 hours

Water resistance: 30 meters

Limited series: 111 pieces

Baselworld 2011 - Tudor - Grantour Chrono Fly-Back

2011-03-25T11:15:00.001-04:00

With the same 42 mm case as the Grantour Date and Grantour Chrono models,
this new model is equipped with a Fly-Back pusher that has a red marking. The
small seconds hand counter at 9 o’clock is set in a background motif reminiscent of
automobile transmission belts. The Grantour Chrono Fly-Back model is available in
steel and in a combination of steel and 18 ct pink gold, a first for the TUDOR brand.

References 20550N and 20551N
42 mm steel case with polished and satin finish
Black-lacquered fixed graduated bezel made of steel or 18 ct pink gold
Self-winding mechanical chronograph movement
Power reserve of approximately 42 hours
Steel or 18 ct pink gold bistable lockable chronograph pushers with red and black markings
60-minute totalizer at 9 o’clock
Small seconds hand at 3 o’clock
Date at 6 o’clock
Sapphire crystal
Steel or 18 ct pink gold screw-down winding crown
Waterproof to a depth of 150 m (500 ft)
Steel or steel and 18 ct pink gold bracelet, or leather strap with large or micro-perforations, folding clasp and safety catch

Baselworld 2011 - Nomos - Zürich Weltzeit

2011-03-25T10:53:00.000-04:00

Every foreign time zone can be called up rapidly by pressing a button repeatedly until the desired place appears in the 12 o’clock position. Then the hands show what time it is there.

BASELWORLD 2011 - ULYSSE NARDIN - ALEXANDER THE GREAT

2011-03-24T14:58:00.001-04:00

This is the Ulysse Nardin Alexander the Great Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts Minute Repeater.

Its mechanics are housed in a 44 mm case of 18-karat white gold or rose gold 4N, and are water-resistant to 30 meters. The visible one-minute tourbillon is integrated into the dial, its bridge created in the same shape as those used on the tourbillons James Pellaton produced for Ulysse Nardin at the beginning of the 20th century.

Jaquemarts on the dial depict Alexander the Great clad in armor and engaged in battle. For instance, in one movement he is on horseback armed with a spear, and in another, the combatant stands defiant with a bow and arrow. There are five hand-crafted figures in all, prominent in appearance against the deep, charcoal-colored background of the man made diamond dial.

The movements of the Jaquemarts are synchronized with the sound of gongs, moving to the minutes, quarters and hours, or to a combination of these units of time. On the far left, the warrior stands static, armed and ready for an attack. In another instance, the saber-wielding combatant makes a strike when the gongs sound on the quarters and hours; this is the only Jaquemart that moves on the hour. As a fierce, spear-thrusting horse rider and as a skilled archer, he makes his fighting move when the quarters are indicated. While shielded in red armor, he attacks on both the quarter and minute indicators. This is the only Jaquemart that moves on the minutes.

The Westminster has four gongs, each with a different tone (Mi-Do-Re-Sol). When the repeater is activated, the hour sound is Sol and the minute sound is Mi.
All four gongs sound in three different sequences for the quarters:
1st quarter: Mi-Do-Re-Sol
2nd quarter: Mi-Do-Re-Sol/Sol-Re-Mi-Do
3rd quarter: Mi-Do-Re-Sol/Sol-Re-Mi-Do/Mi-Do-Re-Sol

The dial is exquisitely crafted with diamond. This decorative diamond is the culmination of millions of small, faceted diamond crystals engineered to grow together to form a continuous diamond layer.

Available in 18k Rose (Ref: 786-90) or White Gold (Ref: 780-90)
Limited to 50 pieces in each metal

BASELWORLD 2011 - BREITLING - CHRONOMAT GMT

2011-03-24T12:19:00.003-04:00

BREITLING Chronomat GMT

The Chronomat GMT from Breitling grants every traveller's wish: to know in an instant the time and date of his place of arrival as well as the time at home, over a 24-hour period and to the exact minute. Equipped with Breitling's new in-house 04 movement, this travellers' instrument has two perfectly synchronised central hour hands. The first, which is associated with the minute hand, moves over a 12-hour dial. The second, with its red triangular tip, moves around a 24-hour scale. Boasting an exclusive design and a dial with subtle three-dimensional effects, the Chronomat GMT will be the new benchmark for all those who want top performance, no matter where they are in the world. And never has a watch been so easy to use!

Movement: Automatic, Breitling 04 calibre, COSC-certified, 28,800 vib/h, 47 jewels, power reserve in excess of 70 hours

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, 24-hour second time zone, ¼ second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers, tachometer

Case: Stainless steel, 47 mm
Ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel
Double-sided anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 500 m / 50 ATM

Dial: Onyx black, Metallica or Blackeye blue, Blackeye grey, Sierra silver or Metallica brown
Superluminova hour and minute hands and hourmarkers
Tachometer scale on flange

Bracelet/Strap: Barenia leather, crocodile, rubber Ocean Racer, rubber Diver Pro or steel Pilot

BASELWORLD 2011 - HUBLOT - BIG BANG ALL BLACK CARBON

2011-03-24T12:14:00.002-04:00

Reference 301.QX.1710.GR
Completely black, completely matte, this is the first time that a Big Bang has been made entirely from carbon fiber.

BASELWORLD 2011 - BREGUET - CLASSIQUE 5717 HORA MUNDI

2011-03-24T12:00:00.002-04:00

Three versions of the dial are available, each representing one part of the world: the Americas, the European and African continents, or Asia and Oceania – six references in all. Breguet’s teams needed three years to design, develop and perfect this complication watch. It is the first example of a mechanical timepiece with an instant-jump time-zone display. This function allows the traveller to easily display the time in two pre-selected time zones, changing instantly from one to the other simply by pressing a button, without disturbing the operation of the watch. Accurate operation during setting is ensured by a stop second system. Changing the time zone affects not only the time, but also the date synchronised through a “tracking” calendar system – and the day/night indicator.

In addition to the hour, minute and second in the centre, it has a completely original date display that makes use of a dragging disc. The disc appears in a window on the dial at 12 o’clock. The window is large enough to show three consecutive dates at once. For example, on the 25th of the month, the number 25 will cross the window from left to right over a period of 24 hours. Gradually, the 23 disappears, then the 24, and the 26 appears, followed by the 27. However, to avoid any confusion in reading the date, Breguet’s watchmakers have made an improvement. To the dragging calendar system they have added a tiny retrograde hand, hidden beneath the dial and ending in a small circle. The circle surrounds the day’s date as soon as it appears at the left side of the date window, and follows it through the day until it disappears at the right side of the window. At midnight, the hand with the circle jumps back to the left side of the window to indicate the date of the day just beginning. This entirely unique system is designed to make reading the date easier in a dragging calendar configuration.

This watch’s most iconic complication, however, is its instant-jump time-zone display system with synchronized date, day/night and city indications, a world first for a mechanical watch. This function lets the wearer preselect, from among the cities listed for the 24 time zones, two cities for which he wishes to display local time. He can then change from one to the other by pressing on the combined crown/pushpiece at 8 o’clock, which triggers an instant jump. For example, assume it is 4 pm in Paris on the 25th of the month. Rotating the combined crown/pushpiece reveals “Paris” in the window at 6 o’clock, then the crown at 3 o’clock is used to set the hands to 4 o’clock and the date to 25, taking care that the day/night indicator shows the sun. For quick display of the local time in Sydney, the crown/pushpiece is first rotated to bring up the name of the Australian city in the window at 6 o’clock; the watch then automatically sets itself to Sydney time. Since the difference in time is nine hours, the hour hand will move forward by nine hours. At the same time, the date will change to the 26th and the day/night indicator will turn to show the moon.

When it is 4 pm in Paris, it is in fact 1 am the next day in Sydney. Once the watch has been preset, the double instant-jump time-zone display system will simultaneously change all the indications – hour, date and day/night – in a coordinated way from Paris time to Sydney time when the wearer simply presses on the crown/pushpiece. This complication will thus prove extremely useful for frequent travelers, or persons in contact with others living in distant countries; it allows them to get in touch with such people while being certain that they are not waking them up in the middle of the night.

Reference: 5717BR/US/9ZU
44mm case diameter
13.5mm thickness

18k Gold or 950 Platinum

The dial’s periphery, sporting a chapter ring with Roman numeral transfers, has a silvered and circular satin-brushed finish, a border that is hand-engraved on a rose engine, and red-gold hour markers – or platinum depending on the version of the case. The dial’s centre, depicting a view of the globe, is stamped and hand-engraved on a rose engine to create a “wave” motif on the oceans. The oceans are then given multiple coats of lacquer and the continents are polished. On the day/night indicator, the sky is made of lapis lazuli containing numerous pyrite inclusions that look like tiny specks of gold and represent the stars. The sun and moon are made of solid gold: yellow gold for the sun, rhodium-plated yellow gold for the moon. The cover for this disc, representing a cloud and bearing the Breguet name and the watch’s serial number, is also made of silvered 18-carat gold and engraved entirely by hand.

BASELWORLD 2011 - PATEK PHILIPPE - Triple Complication Ref. 5208

2011-03-24T11:48:00.001-04:00

What is the 5208? It's a self-winding Grand Complication wristwatch with minute repeater, monopusher chronograph, instantaneous perpetual calendar with apertures, and moon phases.

It's a follow-up to 2008's ref. 5207. The 5208 is the Manufacture's first triple-complication with chronograph.

In the current collection of Patek Philippe’s Grand Complication wristwatches, the Ref. 5208P ranks second, directly behind the Sky Moon Tourbillon, and before the Ref. 5207 (minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with aperture displays) and the Ref. 5216 (minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date).

Simply magnificent! I love the hollowed-out lugs and overall look of the piece. Wonderful!

BASELWORLD 2011 - SEIKO - ANANTA AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH DIVER'S WATCH

2011-03-24T11:32:00.000-04:00

Limited to just 700 pieces and representing the Japanese art forms of Katana and hand-painted lacquer, this new Ananta is a winner!

High legibility is a vital attribute in a diving watch, and to ensure that the dive time is as readable as possible even in dark waters, SEIKO commissioned Isshu Tamura, a world-renowned lacquer artist, to create a dial that is truly jet black. Each dial is painted, layer by layer, and then polished by hand by Mr. Tamura in his studio in Kanazawa on the western shores of the Japanese mainland. Isshu Tamura was born in Kanazawa in 1957, and is a master of “Kaga Makie” which is a traditional style of lacquer. The legibility is further enhanced by the use of a non-reflective coating on the sapphire glass.

The design of Ananta is inspired by Katana, the ancient Japanese art of sword making. The katana sword was first developed more than 800 years ago and symbolizes the high value that Japanese culture puts upon traditional skills and innovative manufacture, and is therefore the perfect inspiration for Ananta.

“Limited Edition” and the serial numbers will be engraved on each case back. The watch is presented in an exclusive gift box with the “SEIKO 130th Anniversary” emblem.

BASELWORLD 2011 - HUBLOT - 2 MILLION € BB

2011-03-24T11:27:00.000-04:00

From the Department of Insanity....

2 MILLION € BB (that's $2,827,000 at today's exchange rate)
More than 140 carats.
637 baguette diamonds.
1 rose cut diamond on the crown.
A Vendôme Tourbillon movement.

More than 13,000 hours were needed to cut the stones (with 45 gemcutters working non-stop for 1 month), which then took 2,000 hours to set.

Each diamond in the piece could adorn a ring.

A secret project, the 2 MILLION € BB started life as a simple design hand-sketched around the table in Jean-Claude Biver's office at the Hublot stand at BaselWorld last year, as a "light-hearted confidential challenge" between Hublot's CEO and our master gemstone setters.

Finished the day before BaselWorld 2011 opened, it would take no less than 12 months to bring this exceptional piece to life, made up of 637 baguette diamonds and a rose cut diamond on the crown.

A tour de force of patience and perfection, it was a long process. It consisted firstly of bringing the gemstones together, selecting them one by one to achieve perfect uniformity in terms of purity and colour (the diamonds selected by Hublot are of a remarkable quality, with colour graded as TOP WESSELTON and clarity of A VVS), then cutting each of them to the technical designs of the piece, and finishing by patiently setting each of them in a "Clou de Paris" setting, an extremely meticulous process, taking the master gemstone setters 9 months.

All the diamonds used in this watch come from the same mine, located in Yakutsk in the Russian Far East, on the same latitude as Beijing and a 9-hour flight from Moscow. More than 270 carats of rough diamonds were chosen from a lot of 1500 carats, and from these the stones used were selected. For about a month, the expert hands of 45 gemcutters worked hard to create 637 baguette diamonds, totalling just over 141 carats..

The piece shall first go on display in the Hublot boutique at 10 Place Vendôme.

Reference 305.WX.0099.WX.9904
Case: 18 K white gold set with 72 baguette diamonds, 20.85 carats
Bezel: 18 K white gold set with 72 baguette diamonds, 11.14 carats
Crystal: Sapphire with interior and exterior anti-reflective treatment
Case-back: 18 K white gold with sapphire crystal, interior anti-reflective treatment
Crown: 18 K white gold set with 24 baguette diamonds and one rose cut diamond, 1.02 carats
Dial: 18 K white gold, Palladium 150, set with 116 baguette diamonds, 8.87 carats, dial on two levels with 2 Vendôme columns
Hands: Faceted, rhodium-plated skeleton hands set with diamonds
Movement: HUB 6003, mechanical hand-wound tourbillon

Dimensions:
Diameter: 13 ¼ ’’’ (Ø 30.00 mm)
Thickness: 7.10 mm

No. of components: 148
Number of jewels: 24
Bridges: Decorated with baguette settings
Balance: Gyromax regulating inertia block
Vibrations: 21,600 Vib/h (3Hz)
Tourbillon Cage: Ø 13 mm
Power reserve: Approximately 120 hours
Bracelet: 18 K white gold set with 353 baguette diamonds, 102.62 carats
Clasp: 18 K white gold deployant buckle

Although I am not particularly keen on diamond-encrusted watches for myself, I have to marvel at the sheer technical mastery the diamond cutters and setters have shown in this piece. The effort and final result are truly staggering. This is a masterpiece of haute joaillerie. Completely over-the-top. Beautiful nonetheless.

BASELWORLD 2011 - TAG HEUER

2011-03-23T16:19:00.001-04:00

The theme for TAG Heuer in 2011 at Baselworld? Retro. Modern interpretations of historical models. TAG Heuer has the technological know-how to make some pretty stunning timepieces, but it seems even they can't fight the trend! Their 1887 chronograph and Silverstone was a toe in the water. Now they've jumped right in.

The going-on five year trend of back-to-basics, return to simpler times, is now in full swing and judging by TAG Heuer's adoption of this trend, it looks like we might have to put up with it for a little while longer. Longines (among others), a contemporary of Heuer, got the ball rolling quite a few years back and judging by their success, many brands have followed. I wish they wouldn't. Not every watch deserves or warrants the historical treatment. Moreover, have these brands simply run out of ideas? Do what Porsche has done with their stellar 911s. Constant, consistent improvements of an already popular and established marque.

With that said, let's review what we're going to be seeing in store displays in the upcoming months.

The Carrera Heritage collection

The Carrera Heritage Calibre 6 (above) is 39mm in diameter

The Carrera Heritage Caliber 16 Chronograph (above) is 41mm in diameter

The Carrera Heritage Collection is available in a 39mm watch edition equipped with an automatic Calibre 6 movement with an azurage embossed small second counter and the date at 6 o’clock. The 41mm automatic chronograph version with the Calibre 16 movement inside and three azurage-embossed sub-counters on the dial. Several options are offered — steel, steel and gold, and steel and rose gold, all with crystal sapphire case back showing the cogs and wheels of the movement inside. Straps are in alligator with steel folding clasp with safety push buttons; bracelets are 5-row alternate fine-brushed and polished steel. Water resistance is to 100 meters.

The MONZA Automatic Chronograph

Available in a limited edition of 1,911 pieces (to commemorate the famous “Time of Trip” dashboard chronograph of 1911), the new Monza chronograph celebrates the golden age of HEUER and the aesthetic codes of the 1970s: cushion-shaped bezel, blue hands on a white dial, luminescent “old rhodium” on the oversized Arabic numerals and hand markers, and chemin de fer indexes on the counters. The small second sub-counter is at 9 and the chronograph minute counter is at 3. The HEUER logo reinterprets the original, but this is not a replica or retro edition, despite the polished vintage crown: inside ticks the lightning-fast Calibre 36 — next to the Mikrograph the fastest watch movement in the industry. To make room for it requires a thicker, 38mm case. The case back is all new, too: screwed shut with sapphire crystal and engraved with the series number “N° XXXX/1911”. The classic HEUER blazon is also found inside the brown leather strap and on the folding buckle.

BASELWORLD 2011 - TAG HEUER - Mikrotimer Flying 1000 Concept Chronograph

2011-03-23T15:27:00.005-04:00

What have we here? A 1/1000th of a second mechanical chronograph. 'nuf said. Awesome!

Movement
- Tag Heuer Mikrotimer Flying 1000 concept chronograph
- Manual chronograph (3,600,000 beats per hour))
- Automatic watch (28,800 beats per hour)

Dial
- “Black gold” coated “Côte de Genève” and black dial
- Chronograph minute and 1/12th of minute on central hand
- Chronograph 1/10th of a second at 6 o’clock calibrated to 5 seconds
- White superluminova arabic numerals
- 1000 yellow arabic numeral
- “Black gold” coated & polished hour and minute hands with luminescent markers
- Yellow central 1/1000th of a second chronograph hand
- Black & yellow chronograph hands
- Monochrome Tag Heuer logo
- Minuterie on the white flange

Strap
- Rubber strap

Case
- Case diameter: 45mm
- Titanium carbide coated case
- Double anti-reflective curved sapphire crystal
- Titanium carbide coated pushbuttons
- Titanium carbide coated & rubber crown
- Fine brushed titanium horns
- Sapphire case back to allow direct view of the decorated movement
- Water-resistance: 100 meters

Price? Sorry folks. Not yet. This is just a concept for now.

Check out the video.

More about the movement:
354 components

Movement Dimension
- Total diameter: 35.8 mm (15 ¾’’’)
- Total height: 7.95 mm

Frequency

- 28,800 vibrations per hour/ 4 hertz (watch)
- 3,600,000 vibrations per hour/ 500 hertz (chronograph)

Jewels
- 53 jewels

Power reserve
- 42 hours watch power reserve
- 150 seconds power reserve

Property of display
- Hours
- Minutes
- Central 1/1000th chronograph second
- Chronograph minute and 1/12th of minute on central hand
- Chronograph 1/10th of a second at 6 o’clock calibrated to 5 seconds

Mechanical features

- 1/1000th second chronograph function
- High frequency mechanical regulating 500hz spiral for chronograph (patent pending)
(gives static stability and extremely high dynamism with limited dilation. Reduces gravity effects and shocks. Low amplitude increases the isochronous precision of the pulse)
- Traditionnal balance wheel for watch
- Automatic bi-directionnal rewinding movement
- Stop second (when setting the hour)

BASELWORLD 2011 - RICHARD MILLE - RM 035 Rafael Nadal Chronofiable Certified

2011-03-23T15:07:00.000-04:00

Chronofiable? The Chronofiable® test, developed at the beginning of the 80’s by the CCF SA (centre de contrôle de la fiabilité de l’horlogerie Suisse, taken over in 1985 by the Laboratoire Dubois SA), was devised to expose timepieces to an accelerated ageing test simulating over 21 days, the equivalent of 6 months effective wear. This is achieved by the execution of a long series of tests such as the initial monitoring of the movement functions, an additional rate, the amplitude test taken at two temperature levels (0°C and 50°C), the monitoring of the power reserve and the winding velocity. Included in this artificial ageing cycle test are extensive linear and angular accelerations as well as some 20,000 shocks ranging from 250 to 5500 m/s2 (9.81 m/s2 = 1g). The last step is a final monitoring phase applying the same elements than during the initial monitoring.

The RM035 is made of a very light magnesium-aluminum alloy.

BASELWORLD 2011 - ROLEX - OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA 116515LN – BLACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER

2011-03-23T14:30:00.003-04:00

A new Rolex Daytona? That's right. Made of Rolex's proprietary Everose gold, it has a Monobloc black CERACHROM bezel, with engraved numerals filled with pink gold via magnetron cathode sputtering. Personally, the materials configuration is not my cup of tea. I prefer the Stainless Steel Daytona - THE classic chronograph.

At Baselworld 2011, Rolex has also released a new Yacht-Master II, Explorer II, Datejust Special Edition and Lady-Datejust.

BASELWORLD 2011 - RICHARD MILLE - AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH RM 032

2011-03-23T14:02:00.000-04:00

New from Richard Mille is the RM 032. You can have your choice of metal: either Titanium, 18k White Gold or 18k Red Gold. This timepiece is jam-packed with functions including a 60-minute countdown, flyback chrono and annual calendar. The case measures a whopping 50mm diameter and will sit 17.80mm above your wrist.

Diving depth is indicated at 300 meters (ISO 6425 compliant) and the watch features a locking crown and chronograph pushers to prevent accidental pressurized activation of the chronograph.

The intricate case takes about 12 hours to machine using CNC and this watch features several technical innovations.

Bottom line: Sometimes too much is too much. This is a watch featuring many technical wonders. But I find it all a bit too overdone. I am a big fan of RM and have many in my collection, but I don't see the RM 032 being acquired. In my humble opinion, it's a feat of technical mastery gone too far. A great achievement, but not for me.

BASELWORLD 2011 - PATEK PHILIPPE - Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Réf. 5270

2011-03-23T13:44:00.000-04:00

Patek Philippe is expanding its classic chronograph collection with the introduction of its very latest perpetual calendar model, a complication that has always occupied a place of honor in the brand’s collections. This new flagship of haute horlogerie, the Réf. 5270, is fitted with a unique column wheel chronograph movement. The day and month appear in a double window at 12 o’clock, with a hand indicating the date around the moon phase. The leap year is displayed in a small round window at 4:30 opposite a matching window for the day/night display at 7:30. Like all the brand’s grand complications, it has two interchangeable backs: one in sapphire crystal that reveals the complexity of the movement and the elegance of its finishing, the other, a white gold solid back that can be personalized with a dedication or an engraving.

Movement: Hand-wound, CH 29-535 PS Q calibre

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar (date, day, month and leap years), chronograph, moon phase and day/night indicator

Case:
18K white gold, 41 mm
Sapphire crystal
Interchangeable solid back and sapphire crystal back
Water-resistant to 30 m / 3 ATM

Dial:
Silvered opaline
Black oxidised white-gold hourmarkers and hands
Day and month windows at 12 o’clock
Moon phase and date at 6 o’clock
Day/night indicator at 7.30, leap year indicator at 4.30
Instant 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and small seconds counter at 9 o’clock

Bracelet/Strap: Matt black, hand-stitched, square-scale alligator leather with 18K white gold folding clasp

I have a soft-spot for Patek, and as I've previously blogged, chronographs are my thing. So a perpetual calendar chronograph will definitely be on my short list. This is a beautiful piece. At 41mm, it shows that even Patek is not immune to the bigness trend. It's a whole lot larger than traditional grand complications from the Manufacture. While not as complicated as the 5004G with its split-seconds chronograph, this new piece fits in neatly into the existing collection providing a terrific alternative to Lange's Datograph Perpetual. This is sure to be a hit amongst collectors and aficionados.

NEW WATCH - JAEGER-LECOULTRE - Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 U.S. Edition Q2788571

2011-03-16T11:54:00.002-04:00

1931 to 2011 - 80 years of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso.

Today the brand is introducing a new addition to the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931, exclusively sold at the Beverly Hills Boutique and select U.S. retailers. Donning the same black dial as its predecessor this year, this edition has straight hands with a pointed tip and baton-type hour-markers. To recreate the color tone the hands and markers of the historical 1931 would turn with age, Jaeger-LeCoultre used a tan luminescent material to bring out the vintage appeal. The Reverso logo on the dial is a faithful replica of the original 1931. Often it is the most subtle of changes that greatly influences aesthetics of a timepiece.

In 2011 one hundred pieces will be produced in a non-numbered series.

Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 U.S. Edition Q2788571

Movement

• Mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822, crafted,
assembled and decorated by hand
• 21,600 vibrations per hour
• 21 jewels
• thickness: 2.94 mm
• 134 parts
• 45-hour power reserve
Functions
• hours, minutes

Dial
• black
• illuminated hands and hour-markers , color “antique beige”

Case
• steel
• height: 46 mm
• width: 27.5 mm
• thickness: 7.2 mm
• “1000 Hours Control” indication appearing on the case-back
• water-resistant to 3 bar

Strap
• Eduardo Fagliano cordovan leather straps with pin buckle

Reference
• Q2788571

My 0.018 Swiss francs is that Jaeger continues the trend of luxury watchmakers to resonate with their audience by harking back to re-editions and re-workings of classic watches of yesteryear. There certainly is an elegance to the classic designs of old, but perusing old designs for inspiration for new editions seems to me like some brands are running out of ideas. After years of increasing bigness and wild designs, the luxury watch industry is cooling its heels and returning to sober watch design again. This state of affairs is understandable, but the watch industry needs to continue to drive forward with intriguing designs.

NEW WATCH - CARTIER - DELICES DE CARTIER

2011-03-16T11:21:00.001-04:00

All images © Studio Dieleman, Cartier 2010

New from Cartier, comes the Délices de Cartier watch in three sizes. Small (31.53mm x 36.07mm), large (38.39mm x 43.81mm) and extra-large (49.18mm x 50.47mm). These watches are available with or without diamonds and the XL model features a full pave diamond dial.

Cartier is one of the few brands that actually makes an effort to innovate - especially in the area of case design aesthetics. In recent years they have come out with the La Dona, the Ballon Bleu and now Délices de Cartier.

NEW WATCH - VENTURA - SPARC MGS

2011-03-15T15:22:00.000-04:00

Having developed the first automatic watch with a digital display, Ventura and its founder Pierre Nobs disappeared from the watch scene in 2007. Now, however, they have returned to center stage with the SPARC MGS®, the first high-end automatic watch with a digital display driven by a micro-generator visible in the upper part of the case.

Wrist movements feed an accumulator providing power to the high-performance microprocessor. Multiple functions, like the 100-year perpetual calendar, are just a fingertip away, thanks to the timepiece’s EasySkroll® operating system.

This functionality was promised in a V-Tec Sigma MGS about three years ago, so I am pleased to see the release of the SPARC MGS®.

FACTS AND FIGURES
SPARC MGS
Size: H (6 ~ 9h) 56.30 mm x W (9 ~ 3h) 38.00 mm x T 8.90 / 12.20
Weight: ca. 130 gr. (rubber strap), 200 gr. (steel bracelet)
Worldwide Warranty: 2 Years (Cases individually numbered and recorded)
Materials:
Case: Durinox® hardened stainless steel
Bracelets: - Durinox® hardened stainless steel
- Rubber
Folding deployment buckles
Crystals: Sapphire
Oscillating Mass: Tungsten
Black Versions: Additional PVD coating on Durinox®

Water resistance: 3 bar, tested at 0.5 bar and at 5 bar, normal swimming

Technical specifications: 2nd gen Micro-Generating-System (MGS)
VEN_10 Digital Module with EasyScroll® OS V2.0
LC Display backlight by LED

Functions: Time1+ Date1, Time2 + Date2, Alarm, Chronograph, Count-down
100 Years Perpetual Calendar with Day (5 languages),
Date, Month, Year
12/24H format, 3 Date-formats, LED-Backlight

MGS® Power Management:
Manual power off
Automatic sleep mode (LC Display off, Functions on)
Motion-sensor to monitor watch movements
Automatic Backlight control to prevent over-use

Power Reserve: ~ 45 days , > 5 Years (manual switch-off mode)

Packaging: Wood gift casket, Piano-lacquer finish, Manual on USB stick

Prices/ Sales start: Not yet official, from ca. CHF / US$ 4’500.-, Summer 2011

Questions for you my dear reader....

2011-03-15T13:56:00.000-04:00

Dear readers

I am wondering if you want me to write about every and any brand that I come across and everything that they publish? Or, would you prefer me to write my considered opinion on a new watch or brand or press release? Or should I just post the press-release without any editing at all?

Send me public comments or even private emails. I just want to know what you really want.

After being on walkabout for over a month, I have time to contemplate my place in the world. What I want for Watch Happening is to pontificate about watch manufacturing, watch buying and watch maintenance. Scratch that. I want to pontificate about anything I want to. This is my blog after all. Over the years I have developed a few opinions of my own, and I find the news-media world lacking in definitive opinion. When was the last time someone wrote on a news website that a watch was shite. I am also fortunate to be able to afford any watch I want, and I buy what I like. Brands be damned if they try and pawn off a piece-of-crap watch on the unsuspecting public.

Most of the information put out by the watch public-relations suits is marketing fluff. Enough information for you to read the whole thing, but essentially page upon page of mostly useless information so that the PR executive could fill a predefined word quota.

We're seasoned individuals, you and I. We've been around the block a few times. We can spot the difference between a well executed press release and an information dump of useless jargon. So, henceforth, I will be turning off my filter and telling you what I think. If you don't like it, that's fine, it's a free country.

NEW WATCH - ULYSSE NARDIN - BLACK SEA

2011-03-15T13:39:00.000-04:00

Following in the footsteps of other Marine Diver limited editions, comes the new Ulysse Nardin Black Sea. This new rendition should not be confused with the Black Surf, Blue Seal or Black Ocean, though I think UN may be running out of synonyms for the word "ocean".

This piece offers unique red dial-coloring on the markers and hands.

Where in the world is Bernard?

2011-03-15T13:15:00.000-04:00

I decided to pick February and early March for some adventuring, so that is why you haven't heard much from Watch Happening. It's also because nothing much is happening in the watch world. Everyone is getting ready for Baselworld 2011. What has been made available by the watch manufacturers over the past 6 weeks are a few sneak peaks of new arrivals and for some brands, some minor adjustments to cases, dials and straps for existing products. In the next few days you may find a few updates from me, but let's be honest, we're all waiting eagerly for the new Baselworld 2011 arrivals!

NEW WATCH - ORIS - BIG CROWN X1 CALCULATOR

2011-02-08T14:27:00.000-05:00

With its Big Crown collection, Oris demonstrates expertise in the field of tribute watches to historical aircraft. Inspired by the Bell X-1, the first plane to break the sound barrier, the Big Crown X1 Calculator refers to this era when flight plans were still made using slide rules, and accentuates this unique mechanism. Its rotating bezel serves to adjust the slide rule and to calculate fuel consumption for a given flight time, while the caseback displays a m/ft conversion table for international use. The chronograph push-pieces bear the X and 1, like a last nod to the date of the historical feat accomplished at 10:18 on October 14th 1947

Movement: Automatic, ETA Valjoux 7750
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, chronograph and slide rule

Case
PVD-coated gunmetal grey stainless steel, 46 mm
Sapphire crystal cambered on both sides with anti-glare treatment on both sides
Screw-in caseback with mineral crystal and m/ft scale
Rotating bezel with circular slide rule
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Metallized black/gray
Superluminova-enhanced minute-circle, hour-markers and hands
12-hour, 30-minute and small seconds counters at 6, 12 and 9 o’clock respectively
Date window between 4 and 5 o’clock and day window at 9 o’clock

Bracelet/Strap: Black calfskin leather

Pricing will come in below 5,000 CHF

JAEGER-LECOULTRE, THE ART OF REVEALING BEAUTY

2011-02-07T17:44:00.000-05:00

Press Release

JAEGER-LECOULTRE, THE ART OF REVEALING BEAUTY

Behind each creation lies the human hand. Without it, there is no passion. It alone is capable of marrying intuition and expertise, awareness and enchantment. It alone is able to master the technical and aesthetic details that transform an object into a unique masterpiece.

This concern for detail has inspired and driven the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre since 1833, as its artisans and master craftsmen mingle age-old techniques and the latest technological breakthroughs in imagining the finest timepieces.

The most ancient decorative arts are among the precious skills that hold no secrets for the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux.

Enameling, engraving and gem-setting are a range of virtuoso crafts that it associates in its various horological and artistic creations and that is masters under its own roof.

Enameling: an in-house studio
Splendidly embodying the love of detail that has always characterized Jaeger-LeCoultre, the art of miniature enamel painting highlights the absolute beauty of the horological feats accomplished by the Manufacture.

Miniature enamel painting is a discipline that is hardly taught these days and it is thus becoming increasingly hard to find good-quality enamels. As a loyal guardian of the finest watchmaking traditions, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre perpetuates the most ancient techniques applied to decorating watches. It delights in seeking out the most authentic enamels, which it then entrusts to the expert hands of its enamel artists.

Meticulous care, the primordial quality of all watchmakers, also defines the work of the miniature enamel painter. The specialists of the Manufacture all call upon the most refined expressions of their art in personalizing the second face of a Reverso, or the dial of the prestigious round watches in the collection, in accordance with the wishes of their fortunate owners.

The patient stage-by-stage crafting of such a work calls for a large number of extremely delicate operations. Before starting the painting as such, the enameler coats the back of the dial plate or the case-back with a layer called counter enamel and designed to prevent any distortion of the metal during firing. The artist then begins the decorative work by applying successive layers of white enamel.

Enriching this enamel base with a range of metallic oxide pigments enables the artist to create a broad spectrum of colors. These vibrant shades of enamel are then applied to the metal with a goose feather or a very fine brush, before being fired in the kiln several times until the exact hue is reached. The ultimate success of the work depends to a great extent on strokes that are as fine and accurate as possible, while each stage of firing at high temperatures (between 800 and 850 degrees Celsius for grand feu enameling) represents a major risk for the work of art in the making. Moreover, to guarantee the smooth running of the watch mechanism, the enamel artist must display absolute precision in every gesture so as not to exceed the infinitely small tolerances of around 2/10th of a millimeter.

Finally, in order to protect a miniature enamel painting placed on the back of a Reverso, the artisan applies a flux composed of fine layers of transparent enamel serving both as a protective varnish for the miniature painting and to enliven the motif by enhancing the depth and intensity of the colors. This last stage, involving temperatures of over 800°C, implies a number of dangers, since each firing could ruin many hours of patient and meticulous work. Also known as “painting under flux”, this is the most accomplished form of miniature enamel painting due to its immense artistic value and its enduringly stable nature.

An age-old art
The art of enameling goes back several millennia. The first historical traces of enameled works date from the 5th century B.C. The sculptors of Ancient Greece decorated their statues with enameled inlays. The most ancient Greek and Celtic examples are all composed of opaque enamels, because it was not until the 12th century and the Gothic age that the use of transparent enamels became widespread. The methods were consistently refined from then onwards, to the extent of enabling 16th century English goldsmiths and their 18th century French counterparts to create genuine enameled works of art.

Of all the techniques known to date, miniature enamel painting is probably the most sophisticated form of this time-honored art. Having first emerged in the 18th century to provide a supremely refined adornment for jewelery and other precious objects, miniature enamel painting is based on a metal plate with a translucent enamel coating to which the artist applies colors with a brush that are then vitrified.

Initially known in France as “Blois enamelling”, miniature enamel painting was perfected in Geneva, which soon became the capital of this art and of its applications to horology. It is hardly surprising that the city of Calvin became the cradle of this technique, which is based, like watch and clock-making, on extreme meticulousness. This quality, which is one of the prime character traits of the population of Geneva, plays a crucial role in the production quality of a watch.

The historical alliance between enameling and fine watchmaking
In the late 18th century, the same meticulousness, combined with a taste for perfection and the care lavished on even the smallest details, led the Geneva enamelers to develop the method of “painting under flux”. This particularly refined version of miniature enamel painting is distinguished by its artistic precision and the enduring nature of its splendidly conserved appearance. Jaeger-LeCoultre is the only watch firm to pursue this longstanding tradition of adorning high-quality watch cases with miniature enamel paintings. Already during the reign of Louis XIV, enamelers and miniature painters combined their talents to create ever more refined watches. Miniature portraits and charming pastoral scenes such as those painted by Watteau were used to embellish watch cases and dials. In this early 21st century, the enamel specialists of the Manufacture display their mastery of an ancestral art that they continue to associate with fine watchmaking achievements in order to give rise to extraordinarily beautiful creations. Perfectly mastered and constantly enhanced and enriched, the time honored enameling techniques thus become the ultimate expression of peerless skill and dexterity.

Gem-setting: over 20 master gem-setters in the Manufacture
Exceptional horology and fine jewelery making were bound to meet within the Manufacture workshops, which for over a century have combined unequaled mechanical perfection with mastery of the most complex gem-setting techniques.

In jewelery as in watchmaking, success obeys an unwritten law involving long hours of work and patient humility. The visionary talent of the watchmakers in the Manufacture is matched by the virtuosity of the gem-setters and Jaeger-LeCoultre has always taken pride in cultivating a spirit of innovation.

In the watchmakers of the Manufacture, gem-setting is practiced as an art in its own right. Not content with mastering the entire range of skills generally involved in their craft, the Jaeger-LeCoultre gem-setters have themselves developed procedures corresponding to specific aesthetic demands, such as decorating the watch with the swivel case, or the world’s smallest wristwatch. They have acquired an exceptional range and degree of competence matched only by the know-how of their watchmaking colleagues.

Gem-setting techniques
Traditional gem-setting is a process that has ennobled the art of a adorning an object with precious stones. Contrary to mechanical gem-setting, in which the workman merely places stones in dedicated beds prepared by machining processes and then draws back material over the stone in order to fix it in place, the experts exercising traditional gem-setting personally determines the number and position o
the stones, before performing two piercing operations: an extremely fine one exclusively designed to define their position, and a second one to widen it to the exact size of each stone. This process calls for a genuine process of sculpting the material by successive cutting and recutting operations, in order to progressively free the grain of precious metal that will hold the gems. This is followed by a delicate operation that requires great dexterity in order to adjust the stone exactly in its bed. This hand-crafted expertise endows each model with an exclusive aura, even if several are made, since none will be exactly like another.

The talent of the engravers within the Manufacture is also called into play for certain creations in order to highlight the outlines or to further accentuate the beauty of a model by the expert and joint use of the two techniques.

Baguette gem-setting involves stones featuring an angular cut, whether square, rectangular or trapeze-shaped. The gem-setting follows the same stages, with the notable exception that it requires considerably lengthier manual preparation before inserting each gem into its chaton. Alongside the centuries-old art of hand-crafted gem-setting, Jaeger-LeCoultre has invented two remarkably inventive and unique techniques: snow setting and rock-setting. Revealed by the gem-setters of the Manufacture, these techniques are exercising an ever-growing attraction on designers and on a public that is increasingly sensitive to new forms of jewelery expression.

Snow setting
In snow setting, the jewelery craftsman has no other points of reference other than the model itself or the motif to be set: he creates the décor directly on the material, guided by the muses of creativity and thought. No neglect can be tolerated, as he places the diamonds one after the other, side by side, playing with their varying diameters in order to entirely cover the precious metal. The gem-setter’s work is revealed as the stones, nestling against each other, cover the metal surface with a glittering carpet of light. This inventive freedom calls for meticulous dexterity. In addition to the complexity of the work and the time required to perform it, selecting the diamonds also calls for great expertise, since the smallest diameters must be able to melt seamlessly into the most daring designs.

Rock setting
The second procedure born of the imagination of the gem-setters active within the Manufacture, rock setting is distinguished by an exceptional ability to reveal the fire of the purest diamonds. Pride of place is given to baguette-cut precious stones that are ideally suited to being fitted closely together. The base or background, meaning the material between the stones, vanishes entirely beneath the sparkling gems. This gem-setting method is naturally one of the jealously guarded secrets of the Manufacture. Contemporary and daring by nature, rock setting is a feat of mysterious gem-setting embellishing the cases of the most beautiful ladies’ watches. The technique has been taken to new heights within the Jaeger-LeCoultre workshops, reaching such a dizzying degree of purity that it disappears completely in order to let pure beauty do the talking.

Engraving
Forming a link between visual perceptions and emotions, the case of the legendary Reverso swivel watch naturally lends itself to the expression of intimate feelings. A desire to portray hidden beauty, to celebrate solemn occasions… Whether for festivities, birthdays, anniversaries or special commemorations, the Reverso welcomes all manner of references conveyed through monograms, initials, dates, family crests, coats-of-arms, personal memories and magical moments – all engraved on the back of the reversible case. One face is thus reserved for time, and the other for personalization.

A tribute to artistic traditions, engraving emphasizes the importance of the imagination in ensuring originality. Better still, it transforms the case of the Reverso into a full-fledged stage-setting.

The seal of fine craftsmanship
From the Renaissance period onwards, horology required the contribution of skilled artisans in adorning the metal of clock cabinets and watch cases. The steadily growing number of workmen involved in decoration came to specialize in increasingly elaborate techniques. Originally taught by masters within workshops, they subsequently become part of the curriculum of artistic schools. This art as applied to horology, and particularly to watches, was consistently cultivated in Switzerland.

According to the dictates of fashion and the demands of commerce, the master-craftsmen displayed a wealth of dexterity in practicing certain decorative processes, including engraving. In tune with the styles demanded by the era, such engravings were abundant and extremely expressive. Figurative ornamentation was then abandoned in favor of more geometrical, understated and elegant forms.

Nonetheless, this stricter type of ornamentation was not synonymous with strict efficiency and economy, and the skilled and dedicated artisans were as determined as ever in their quest for perfection.

Artists
Creativity, clarity and imagination are essential qualities in giving depth and relief to a work, in translating the suggestion of a desire into engraved or gem-set monograms or coats-of-arms. The experts who exercise this craft are endowed with an immense wealth of know-how. An in-depth knowledge of metals, combined the ability to feelings through the 26 letters of the alphabet and of illustrating emotions through drawings, this art call for extreme mastery that is tending to disappear with the profession of master-engraver itself. This art demands a rare degree of expertise.

Heir to unique artistic knowledge and gifted with proverbial dexterity, the engraver of the Manufacture embodies the nobility of a time-honored tradition: he prefers using hand tools rather than machines.

He engraves the reversible cases in a tranquil workshop sheltered from the hustle and bustle outside. Well accustomed to coats-of-arms, initials and drawings, he painstakingly illustrates and personifies the second face of the Reverso. In fulfilling the wish of the owner of a legendary timepiece, he signs the watch and establishes a privileged relationship with it. With its unique case that swivels to turn its back on shocks and to protect its dial, the Reverso is the only timepiece to lend its reversible case to personalization.

Age-old tools
Tools that have found their way through the centuries, the burins, chisels, files and hammers used today differ very little from those owned by the Egyptians and the Trojans.

The burin or engraver is the direct descent of the rough scraper. The wooden handle of this bevel-cut steel chisel is rounded so as to fit perfectly into the hollow of the hand, which exercises a pressure that determines exactly how far the blade penetrates into the material.

In order to carve out tiny details and to take exactitude to extremes, the master-engraver has a dozen or so burins of various sizes. He sharpens them himself on a sandstone grinding-wheel, on an emery grinding and finally on an oilstone. The care devoted to this operation determines the quality of his work: shaded areas can only be created on an impeccable polished cutting surface. Writing with the burin in gold, steel or platinum requires years of experience. First comes the sketch traced with a dry-point directly on the back of the Reverso. The drawing is then refined with the burin suited to the style of the engraving. As is stated in an historical engraving manual: “The writing must flow freely from the hand, since this is the only way of achieving fine characters”.

Finely executed monograms and initials
Expressing a sense of detail and of clean-cut, rigorous lines, monograms convey a sense of delicate finesse. Formerly used as a seal on official documents, they now ennoble the case of the legendary reversible watch, a timepiece brimming with emotions that willingly plays the role of confidant. In his tireless pursuit of perfection, the master-engraver carefully draws the monograms and initials with the dry-point and then traces the interlacing patterns with the burin before polishing the piece in order to achieve the smooth and stately beauty it deserves. He may also adorn the watch with numerals and motif. In the hushed quiet of his workshop, he is more than ever attuned to the meandering of time, to the limpid silence of the seasons, to the silky light…

Far removed from the hum of the world beyond, he engraves the echo of his imagination and invents a language expressed in countless silent ways. He lends an artist’s ear to poetic thoughts and paves the way for dreams. Whether pachyderms or butterflies, the fanciful creatures dreamed up by the owners thus enjoy timeless repose, immortalized in steel, gold or platinum.

Lions and eagles, timeless symbols of strength and valor, are motifs reserved for family crests. Used at an early period in history to authenticate documents and to signal noble rank, such coats-of-arms remain a distinctive insignia, and many families steel choose to emphasize their social standing through them. Nonetheless, since discretion may sometimes be preferred in this respect, the owner of a Reverso enjoys the distinctive advantage of being able to choose between modestly concealing the family crest or revealing it according to circumstances.

Lacquering
Deep black, shimmering blue, vivid red: a palette of colors enliven and enhance the engraving. Lacquered engraving provides greater freedom of expression and provides scope for fanciful and subtle motifs.

The engraver’s approach is very similar, but the tracing performed with the burin is followed by successive firings at 90°, one color after another. The distinctive shades thereby combine to depict the serene glow of the figures portrayed, the nostalgic aura of the landscapes, the aristocratic elegance of a curve…

A truly abundant wealth of artistic sensitivity can be perceived between the lines of the images, the coats-of-arms and the monograms.

SIHH 2011 - VACHERON CONSTANTIN - Quai de l'Ile Annual Calendar

2011-01-20T14:28:00.000-05:00

It made a significant impact in 2008 and will doubtless not go unnoticed in 2011. Resolutely contemporary and embodying as never before the concept of personalisation in the field of fine watchmaking, the Quai de l’Ile collection welcomes a new complication that is as useful as it is technical: the retrograde annual calendar. Clothed in pink or white gold – or both if the customer so wishes – this model with its dynamic lines houses a new mechanical self-winding complicated movement designed, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin: Calibre 2460 QRA, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. This calibre incorporates two expressions of technical mastery: the annual calendar combined with a retrograde date display.

A rare and extremely useful combination

The annual calendar is undoubtedly one of the most useful complications, since it takes account of the essential calendar irregularities over a full year. Contrary to simple calendars programmed for 31-day months and requiring date corrections almost every two months, the mechanical programming of the annual calendar enables it to handle months of both 30 and 31 days. This means it requires adjustment just once a year in order to cope with the specific vagaries of the month of February. Already remarkable in its own right, this complication is associated in the new Quai de l’Ile model with a retrograde date display, an acknowledged Vacheron Constantin speciality.

A new calibre

The master-watchmakers and design engineers of Vacheron Constantin have conceived, developed and crafted the new Calibre 2460 QRA, complying with technical specifications that included the need to meet the high finishing and construction stipulations laid down by the Hallmark of Geneva regulations. The new 326-part Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460 QRA drives the hours, minutes and small seconds at 9 o’clock, as well as the annual calendar with retrograde date display, months and a high-precision moon-phase indication requiring correction just once every 122 years. Equipped with a stop-seconds device to ensure precise time-setting, it is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve and a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour). This mechanical self-winding movement is equipped with an oscillating weight mounted on ceramic ball bearings and specially developed to match the spirit of the innovative Quai de l’Ile collection. Crafted in ruthenium-plated 22K gold, it is distinguished by its pure lines enhanced by five raised decorative fillets.

A visibly modern character

The contemporary character of the Quai de l’Ile collection is further reinforced by the case of the Retrograde Annual Calendar available in a new 43 mm size. Cushion-shaped and featuring a screw-down back fitted with a sapphire crystal pane, this original case is a contemporary reinterpretation of a classic watch shape. Like legendary cars that are endlessly redesigned to keep pace with style developments, the Quai de l’Ile case is a vivid expression of an avant-garde watchmaking concept, while remaining entirely in harmony with the stylistic spirit of Vacheron Constantin. Constantly in search of flowing shapes and visually perfect curves, as well as the boldly assertive character and dynamic lines of stealth-type objects, the Vacheron Constantin designers have pushed the limits of these territories in conceiving and designing this case that now symbolises the Vacheron Constantin personalisation concept.

Time for personalisation

Available in three versions in the standard collection (pink gold, white gold or two-tone pink and white gold), the Quai de l’Ile Retrograde Annual Calendar corresponds to another of the collection’s signature features: personalisation. The owner can personalise the model according to certain predefined principles, and this unique and unprecedented opportunity in the field of Haute Horlogerie is made possible by the original construction of the Quai de l’Ile case and its seven-part middle: lateral flanks at 3 and 9 o’clock, lugs at 12 and 6 o’clock, inter-lug pieces at 12 and 6 o’clock, and a support plate. In addition to these seven elements, the 43 mm-diameter case comprises the bezel, the back and the crown. Combined with certain dial elements, this construction enables Vacheron Constantin to offer its clientele 700 potential variations within the complete Quai de l’Ile collection.

A new face

The latest addition to the collection also offers new dial versions with satin-brushed/vertical finishing in the central zone and opaline finishing in the outer zone, as well as for the month and date indications. When launched in 2008, the Quai de l’Ile achieved a considerable impact through its unprecedented association between the watchmaking world and the most secret and sophisticated “Security Printing” technologies. A powerful emblem of this original security system, the sun motif inspired by the clock tower of the Tour de l’Ile (next to the historic headquarters of Vacheron Constantin) is placed inside a disc printed in invisible ink and appears between 4 and 5 o’clock only under ultra-violet light. Expressing a decidedly avant-garde horological approach, all the models – Annual Retrograde Calendar, Automatic Calendar, Day-Date and Power Reserve – in this collection featuring dynamic lines that may be personalised according to customers’ wishes now come in new dial executions.

The Quai de l’Ile Retrograde Annual Calendar is delivered with two straps: one in black or brown alligator leather, and the other in black or brown rubber, secured by an 18K pink or white gold folding clasp.

Resolutely modern in terms of its design and of the original concepts on which its unique personality is based, the new Quai de l’Ile Retrograde Annual Calendar merges perfect mastery of mechanical complexity with innovative design and an entirely original personalisation concept.

Technical Specifications
Reference:
86040/000R-I0P29 (18K 5N Pink gold)
86040/000G-M936R (18K White gold)
86040/000R-I0P2R (18K Pink and White gold)

Calibre:
2460 QRA, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva

Energy:
Mechanical, self-winding
Movement diameter: 26.20 mm (11’’’ ¼)
Movement thickness: 5.40 mm
Jewels: 27
Frequency: 4Hz (28’800 Vibrations/hour)
Rotor: Special Quai de l'Ile rotor in 22K gold, with a ruthenium finishing and decorated with five embossed fillets

Indications:
Hours, minutes and small seconds at 9 o’clock
Annual calendar (date, month), date with retrograde hand
Precision moon phase

Power reserve: Approximately 43 hours

Case:
18K 5N pink gold or 18K white gold
Cushion-shape
43 mm x 54 mm
Open-worked back with transparent sapphire crystal

Water-resistance:
3 bar (about 30 meters)

Dial:
Soft vertical satin-finishing in the central zone,
Opaline external ring and day and date indication zones
UV ink sun
Chamfered hour-markers and counters
Moon phase disk in matt ebony opaline metal and circular satin-finished moon figure

Strap:
Each model is delivered with two straps:
Black or brown hand-stitched, saddle-finished square-shape scales alligator Mississippiensis leather
Black or brown natural rubber

Clasp: 18K 5N pink or 18K white gold triple-blade folding clasp

SIHH 2011 - JAEGER-LECOULTRE - Grande Reverso Duo

2011-01-20T14:14:00.000-05:00

In inventing the reversible swiveling case in 1931, could the creators of the Reverso possibly have imagined that their successors several decades on would use it to serve as something very different to a simple protective “shield”?

One day, in observing the metal surface revealed in full while the dial remained hidden from sight, a watchmaker at the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre suddenly had an epiphany: “What if…?” What if one were to use the principle of the twin-faced case for a purpose other than to protect from shocks? What if one were to equip the Reverso with two dials instead of one? Suddenly, this concept of a reversible case took on a far greater dimension and opened up whole new vistas of horological creativity.

But what would one actually do with two dials? Maybe use them to show the time in two different time zones? In 1994, this idea gave rise to the Reverso Duo which reinvented the GMT function. Naturally, nobody imagined for a moment that this performance could be achieved other than by entrusting a single movement with the mission of driving this double time indication. The result was to take up the challenge of using a single mechanism to power hands rotating in opposite directions and independently adjustable.

The new Grande Reverso Duo is distinguished by its generous dimensions and by a dial design that has been entirely rethought to provide enhanced visual pleasure and greater readability. Within this area, the complication has evolved and the function has also been rethought. The travel time-zone is adjustable via the crown and located on the front side. In order to maintain the precision of the minutes and seconds, the adjustment is performed in one-hour jumps of the hour hand. And since user-friendliness is a must at Jaeger-LeCoultre, the date intelligently follows the time-zone display and can jump both forwards and backwards.

On the back, the “hometime” display maintains the reference time in the country chosen as the place of residence.

The front shows the small seconds and the date in a central arc of a circle aperture, both clearly readable on the rectangular white dial combining vertical guilloché work and a Clous de Paris motif. Swivelling the case reveals the hidden face of the Grande Reverso Duo in the form of a double black dial displaying the time in a second time-zone complete with a 24-hour and day/night indication. Clous de Paris, horizontal guilloché work and satin-brushed/velvet surfaces meet and mingle in an harmonious arrangement marking off the various dial areas. A new large balance oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour ensures maximum precision. The larger case size has also made it possible to increase the power reserve to a full 48 hours.

Grande Reverso Duo: two time-zones, two times more aesthetic refinement, and double the visual pleasure.

Grande Reverso Duo

Movement
- Mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 986, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand
- 28,800 vibrations per hour
- 19 jewels
- thickness: 4.15 mm
- 183 parts
- 48-hour power reserve

Functions
- hour, minute, small seconds, date
- dual time-zone, 24-hour day/night indication

Dial
- guilloché silvered/black.

Case
- steel or 18-carat pink gold
- height: 48.5 mm
- width: 30 mm
- thickness: 10.2 mm
- “1000 Hours Control” indication on the case-back
- sapphire crystal, hardness N°9
- water-resistant to 3 bar

Strap
- black alligator leather with folding clasp

References
- Q3742421, 18-carat

SIHH 2011 - A LANGE & SOHNE - LANGE ZEITWERK STRIKING TIME

2011-01-20T14:11:00.001-05:00

Ludwig van Beethoven’s prodigious reputation is due in large measure to his Symphony No. 5 with its four-note fanfare opening. The fate motif now ushers in a new chapter in the history of A. Lange & Söhne: the most recent sibling in the LANGE ZEITWERK family is endowed with a chiming mechanism that is visible in its face. It strikes the quarter-hours with high-pitched tones and the full hours at a lower pitch. Played fast-forward, the result is the famous leitmotif. The LANGE ZEITWERK STRIKING TIME is the first Lange wristwatch with an acoustic signature.

Nearly two years ago, when A. Lange & Söhne announced the beginning of a new epoch with the LANGE ZEITWERK and its unusual design hallmarks, the declared objective was to depart from the beaten track. So it is no coincidence that the first chiming Lange watch is a “ZEITWERK” as well. Additionally, its mechanical design concept offers ideal prerequisites for the integration of a strike train. When the numeral discs are advanced, a sizeable force vector is unleashed, so after the switching cycle, enough energy remains for other purposes. These reserves are now used by the chiming mechanism to tension the springs that actuate the two hammers. They are made of black-polished steel and are integrated in the dial layout on either side of the subsidiary seconds. The one on the left strikes the hours, the one on the right the quarter-hours. The two gongs are also readily discernible: they are suspended in a recess between the dial and the bezel. In quarter-hour intervals, the mechanism triggers a strike on one of the two gongs. A higher-pitched tone signals the quarter-hours and a lower-pitched one sounds at the top of the hour.

In precision watchmaking, the quarter-hour chime is a rare and decidedly useful function. The ability to turn it on or off is just as welcome: Actuating the push piece at 4 o’clock causes the chiming mechanism to remain mute. The mode is easy to verify, because a glance through the sapphire-crystal glass shows whether or not the hammers are deflected away from the gongs. Incidentally, the hammers are also retracted when the crown is pulled. This allows the time to be set in either direction without activating and inadvertently jamming the chiming mechanism.

With its precisely jumping numeric display, the LANGE ZEITWERK STRIKING TIME also stands for uncompromising lucidity in style. The large hour and minute numerals in adjacent apertures always deliver an unambiguous reading of the current time. Accompanied by a soft click and hardly perceivable by the human eye, the numerals advance minute by minute, powered by the patented constant-force escapement. The grand jump takes place at the top of the hour when all three numeral discs advance simultaneously by exactly one increment. Now, the captivating progression of time is enriched by an acoustic accent every fifteen minutes.

Needless to say, the manufacture calibre L043.2 inside the LANGE ZEITWERK STRIKING TIME fulfils all expectations that watch lovers around the world associate with the venerable marque A. Lange & Söhne, including the lavish manual decoration of all movement parts as well as the balance wheel with eccentric poising weights and Lange’s proprietary balance spring. The sonorous timepiece comes in a 44.2-millimetre white-gold case with a black dial or in a limited edition of 100 platinum-cased watches with rhodiumed dials.

With its bold design vocabulary and its exceptional quarter-hour chime, the third stroke of genius that bears the name LANGE ZEITWERK takes centre stage as a resonant masterpiece.

LANGE ZEITWERK STRIKING TIME - Ref. Nos. 145.029 / 145.025

Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L043.2, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards and largely decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand; jumping minutes; constant-force escapement

No. of movement parts: 528

No. of jewels: 78

Screwed gold chatons: 3

Escapement: Lever escapement

Oscillation system: Shock-resistant glucydur balance with eccentric poising weights; superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house with patent-pending attachment system (balance spring clamp), frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring

Power reserve: 36 hours when fully wound

Functions: Time display with hours and minutes as jumping numerals, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, power-reserve indicator, acoustic signal at quarter-hours and full hours

Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; push piece for enabling and disabling the acoustic signal

Case dimensions: diameter 44.2 millimetres; height 13.8 millimetres

Movement dimensions: diameter 36.0 millimetres; height 10.0 millimetres

Glass and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Case: White gold / Platinum (limited to 100 watches)

Dial: Solid silver, black / Solid silver, rhodié

Time bridge: German silver, rhodiumed

Hands: Rhodiumed gold

Strap Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black

Buckle Heavy Lange prong buckle in white gold / Heavy Lange prong buckle in platinum

SIHH 2011 - A LANGE & SOHNE - SAXONIA THIN

2011-01-20T14:07:00.000-05:00

With its cultivated elegance and impressive intrinsic values, the SAXONIA THIN is a graceful and self-confident ode to the heritage of watchmaking artistry in Saxony.

The SAXONIA THIN enriches A. Lange & Söhne’s redesigned SAXONIA family with an exceptionally slender model whose lucid styling and classically elegant poise are a perfect match for the tradition of this line of watches. The case of the new SAXONIA model has a diameter of 40 millimetres and a height of just 5.9 millimetres. It is the flattest timepiece crafted so far by the venerable Saxon manufactory. Its true grandeur lies in its focus on the essence: It displays the time in hours and minutes, nothing more. From the aesthetic perspective, the SAXONIA THIN celebrates the fundamental values of A. Lange & Söhne with the hallmarks that characterise the SAXONIA collection, including a slender and decidedly elegant case as well as a puristic solid-silver argenté dial. The balanced configuration of the few key style elements – a succinct minute scale, svelte baton hour markers, and lancet hands – emphasise the overall harmony of the watch face. It is the epitome of distinguished elegance paired with contemporary stateliness.

To fit the thin case, A. Lange & Söhne developed an equally slim manually wound movement that can be admired through the sapphire-crystal caseback. The new calibre L093.1 has a diameter of 28 millimetres and is a scant 2.9 millimetres high. It adds to the impressive portfolio of manufacture movements created by the Saxon watchmakers a further oeuvre that unites the full spectrum of craftsmanship, innovative energy, and passion for which the eminent brand has always been respected. The thickness of every single movement part was reduced to the absolutely necessary minimum without compromising the functional reliability in any way. As is always customary at Lange when a new watch is developed, the movement of the SAXONIA THIN was subject to the entire gamut of endurance tests devised by the manufactory’s test laboratories – and of course passed them. Measuring a mere 2.9 millimetres from top to bottom, it is not only the flattest Lange calibre of all time but with respect to precision and dependability also easily lives up to the standards that apply to all models of the manufactory.

A. Lange & Söhne is famous for the lavish finissage of its movements, so it is self-evident that the new ultra-thin calibre is also endowed with all brand-specific refinements. Examples include the German-silver three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing as well as chamfered and polished edges, the gold chatons secured with thermally blued screws, and the sunray finish applied to the wheels that are visibly integrated in the plate. The movement features an indexless oscillation system that beats with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour and can rely on an ample power reserve of 72 hours. The escapement bears the typical A. Lange & Söhne signature: the free-hand engraving on the balance cock.

With the SAXONIA THIN, A. Lange & Söhne has not only defined a new benchmark in the category of ultra-thin watches but has also created a modern classic.

SAXONIA THIN Ref. 211.032

Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L093.1, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards and largely decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates in untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand

No. of movement parts: 167

No. of jewels: 21

Screwed gold chatons: 3

Escapement: Lever escapement

Oscillation system: Shock-resistant glucydur screw balance; superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour

Power reserve: 72 hours when fully wound

Functions: Time display with hours and minutes

Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time

Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time

Case dimensions: diameter 40.0 millimetres; height 5.9 millimetres

Movement dimensions: diameter 28 millimetres; height 2.9 millimetres

Glass and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Case: Pink gold

Dial: Solid silver, argenté

Hands: Pink gold

Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap, chestnut

Buckle: Lange prong buckle in solid pink gold

SIHH 2011 - A LANGE & SOHNE - SAXONIA and SAXONIA AUTOMATIC

2011-01-20T14:03:00.002-05:00

With subtle design modifications, A. Lange & Söhne has given the watches of its elegant SAXONIA collection an even more lucid and contemporary face. During the process, the SAXONIA AUTOMATIC was endowed not only with a larger and slimmer case but also with a newly developed self-winding movement. The cultivated elegance and impressive intrinsic values leveraged by the latest-generation SAXONIA models pay tribute to the grand tradition of Saxon watchmaking artistry.

From the very beginning, Lange conceived the SAXONIA as an expression of its kinship with Saxony. The watch symbolises the allegiance of Ferdinand A. Lange, the founder of the German precision watchmaking industry, with his homeland. As emphatically understated as it may seem, it embodies typically Saxon values such as straightforwardness, modesty, and creativity. In particular, the last of these three traits is reflected in the numerous inventions for which Saxons can take credit. In the 19th century, they transformed their state into Germany’s most trend-setting and innovative economic area. It is during this epoch that the A. Lange & Söhne brand established by Ferdinand A. Lange in 1845 became a synonym for luxurious precision pocket watches from Saxony. The tradition that he founded now lives on in the third generation of timepieces that bear the SAXONIA signature.

Down to the very last detail, the SAXONIA AUTOMATIC transports the heritage of Saxon precision watchmaking into the present day. The all-new Lange manufacture calibre L086.1 is the third self-winding movement presented by the Saxon master watchmakers. Suspended in ball bearings, a central rotor with a centrifugal mass made of 950 platinum assures that the maximum power reserve of 72 hours is quickly available on the wrist. The underlying design emphasises a flat silhouette:

The manually wound SAXONIA with the reliable manufacture calibre L941.1 also reflects the new design vocabulary. It features all of the quality facets that ennoble every member of the refined SAXONIA family. Its case and dial project the new, elegant styling as well. The watch is available in 18-carat yellow, pink, or white gold and has a diameter of 37.0 millimetres. The separately applied hour markers and the lancet hands are made of the same gold alloy.

SAXONIA AUTOMATIC, Ref. Nos. 380.026 / 380.032

Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L086.1, self-winding, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards and largely decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates in untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand

No. of movement parts :209

No. of jewels: 31

Escapement: Lever escapement

Oscillation system: Shock-resistant glucydur screw balance; superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral set screw and whiplash spring

Power reserve: 72 hours when fully wound

Functions: Time display with hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds

Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time

Case dimensions: diameter 38.5 millimetres; height 7.8 millimetres

Movement dimensions: diameter 30.4 millimetres; height 3.7 millimetres

Glass and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Case: White gold / Pink gold

Dial: Solid silver, argenté / Solid silver, argenté

Hands: Rhodiumed gold / Pink gold

Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black / Hand-stitched crocodile strap, chestnut

Buckle: Heavy Lange prong buckle in white gold / Heavy Lange prong buckle in pink gold

SAXONIA - Ref. Nos. 216.021 / 216.026 / 216.032

Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L941.1, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards and largely decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; Plates in untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand

No. of movement parts: 164

No. of jewels: 21

Screwed gold chatons: 4

Escapement: Lever escapement

Oscillation system: Shock-resistant glucydur screw balance; Nivarox balance spring, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment with whiplash spring with patented beat adjustment system

Power reserve: 45 hours when fully wound

Functions: Time display with hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds

Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time

Case dimensions: diameter 37.0 millimetres; height 7.8 millimetres

Movement dimensions: diameter 25.6 millimetres; height 3.2 millimetres

Glass and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Case: Yellow gold / White gold / Pink gold

Dial: Solid silver, champagne / Solid silver, argenté / Solid silver, argenté

Hands: Yellow gold / Rhodiumed gold / Pink gold

Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap, brown / Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black / Hand-stitched crocodile strap, chestnut

Buckle: Lange prong buckle in solid yellow gold / Lange prong buckle in solid white gold / Lange prong buckle in solid pink gold